How to make a gold coin from a copper coin. Gold plating at home: gilding methods How to make gold out of copper

Using a simple chemical treatment, a multi-colored protective and decorative coating is obtained on the surface of the product. A small product is immersed in a container with a chemical solution as a whole, a large product is treated with a brush, sponge, foam rubber. In order for the resulting film to hold on to the product more firmly and not to be covered with plaque, after washing and drying it is wiped with a rag soaked in machine oil or drying oil.

In order not to experiment every time while waiting, in search to obtain the required color tone on a particular material, stock up on samples from steel, copper, brass, aluminum plates treated with one or another solution, indicating their recipes.

Decoration of ferrous metals

Finished products made of ferrous metals need decorative and protective coatings, the technological qualities of which determine their attractiveness and durability.

When processing ferrous metals, especially by the forging method, a layer of scale forms on their surface, at first glance, a beautiful gray-blue color. But this coating does not protect the metal from corrosion, but is iron oxide.

Having a different thickness and density, it is subject to gradual flaking from the main product, so the scale must be removed. It can be done different ways. For example, in a chemical way, using a solution of hydrochloric acid, hexamine and potassium iodide in various proportions. Or mechanical - emery, a metal brush, a fine-grained file, a mixture of water and ground pumice. After cleaning and drying, the product is oxidized by heating its surface with a burner or blowtorch. On it color tones from yellow to dark blue are formed. Having received the desired shade, the heating is abruptly stopped. Given the different thickness of the product, oxidation can achieve different color shades on its different parts. After oxidation, the product is coated with wax dissolved in gasoline. After drying, polish with a hair brush. The black color of the metal can be obtained by rubbing the purified metal with vegetable oil and heating until a film of the desired shade is obtained. The oil must not ignite; decomposing from heating, it densely fills the pores of oxides, forming a reliable coating of black or dark brown color. Products of garden and park architecture, which are constantly exposed to atmospheric influence, are covered with paint and varnish coatings.

Coating with automotive sealant, which is applied to the primer, has proven itself well. Steel can be painted dark blue in an aqueous solution of inosulfite and lead acetate: per liter of water - 150 g of sulfite and 50 g of lead. Easier staining occurs when the solution is heated to a boil. With the help of this solution, brass is given a silver-blue tint.

The strict beauty of blued steel is known, when the metal acquires a blue-black color, like a raven's wing. At the same time, burnishing is one of the best ways to protect against corrosion. Along with silver polished to a mirror surface and shot gold, blued iron was revered as heraldic metal. It was these types of decorative processing that were used to create coats of arms, as well as artistic royal or princely weapons.

To obtain black steel with a blue tint, 100 g of potassium dichromate is dissolved in a liter of water, which is commonly called chrompic by craftsmen. The steel product is kept in this solution for 20 minutes and dried over a flame or high temperature heat. A gray-brown tint appears. By repeating blueing, a blued color is achieved.

A black matte surface is also obtained by chemical oxidation in a solution of the following composition: per liter of water 80 g of sodium hyposulphate (potash), 60 g of ammonium, up to 7 g of phosphoric acid, 3 g of nitric acid.

The dark brown color of the metal is obtained by oxidizing 15 g of ferric chloride, 30 g of ferrous sulfate and 10 g of copper nitrate in a liter of water. The metal begins to change color to brown. Repeated oxidation will result in a thick black-brown color.

Oxidation at room temperature lasts up to an hour, with heating of the oxidizing solution - it is reduced by a factor of three.

The blue color of steel is obtained by oxidation in a solution of 120 g of water, 30 g of ferric chloride, nitric mercury, hydrochloric acid and 120 g of alcohol; at a 20-degree temperature, the oxidation time takes 20 minutes.

Before any oxidation method, the oxide layer must be decapitated with chemical solutions (3-5-pro-resin solution of hydrochloric or sulfuric acid in water), as well as cleanly degreased with acetone or gasoline. These operations are to avoid grease stains or other surface contamination. Products are processed in solutions on wire suspensions and washed under running water to wash off the acid.

In addition to chemical oxidation, they also use the thermal method of decorating ferrous metals, as well as non-ferrous metals, from which products intended for use in a dry room are made.

When the product is heated with a gas burner, shades of tint (color variability) change on it - from straw to black. On the required color, the master stops thermal tinting of the metal. For oxidation by heating the surface of the product in an individual workshop, a simple gas burner with a wooden handle is used, connected by a flexible hose to a gas cartridge. Such a burner can be made by yourself. A homemade burner consists of a nozzle, a plug and a primer (as in a gas stove burner), a tube and a handle. The nozzle (with internal thread) and plug (with external thread) are easiest to make from brass on a lathe. Air holes are drilled on the side of the nozzle. In the cork, which is connected to the nozzle by a thread, two holes are drilled and threads are also made in them for the tube and primer. The handle is put on and fixed on the tube, which is connected to a flexible hose with a thread. The supply (strength) of the gas flame is regulated by a tap on the cylinder. When working with a gas burner, precautions are necessary: ​​you need to make sure that there are no side fires, there is no gas leakage and there are no explosion and fire situations. Color gamut, toning, color transitions can be achieved by the skillful use of a burner. In this way, both chased and other products or works of mixed media are tinted. After heat treatment, the products are covered with a wax layer (wax with a solvent) and polished with felt and felt.

Oil-oil firing is usually used to apply a decorative and protective black-brown coating on cast iron products - sculptural works, figured lattices for fencing parks, flower beds, and others. Products are moistened with drying oil, and then calcined. This method of decoration is also used for works created by artistic forging, since in blacksmithing when working with ferrous metals, the master often has to stumble upon rust. Depending on the degree of damage, rust is removed mechanically or with solvents of the appropriate intensity. Partially affected areas of the metal are cleaned with emery, after wetting them with kerosene. Rust that has covered a large area is removed with a solution based on phosphoric acid, the content of which determines its intensity. The solution is applied with a prepared swab on a holder, and after drying, the place of rust is treated with an iron brush.

Recipes for solutions of various concentrations

Weak: in a liter of water 15 g of concentrated phosphoric acid, 5 g of butyl or ethyl alcohol;

Average: 700 g of water, 200 g of phosphoric acid, 160 g of technical alcohol, 70 g of washing powder.

Strong: per 100 g of water 275 g of phosphoric and 15 g of tartaric acid, 6 g of potassium nitrate, 3 g of chromic anhydride, 8 g of zinc phosphate and 3 g of thiocarbamide.

To remove rust from works of artistic value, for their restoration, sparing solutions are used that can remove rust and minimally damage the main part of the restored product. The preparation of such solutions is feasible in a private workshop. This is almost a natural, minimally chemicalized preparation, which is prepared in a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid from crushed leaves and stems of medicinal herbs - celandine, marshmallow, yarrow, as well as tomatoes and potatoes.

The acid solution should cover the crushed herbal mass. Covered with a lid, this tincture is aged for 7-10 days. After that, a rust pickling solution is prepared by mixing 5 g of the extract obtained as a result of infusion, 40 g of concentrated hydrochloric acid and 75 g of water. These proportions, if necessary, are easily changed to obtain an even more gentle pickling solution: 10 g of extract, 20 g of acid, 100 g of water (inversely proportional change).

Protective tinting of non-ferrous metals and alloys

Particularly susceptible to tinted coatings are copper and its alloys: brass and bronze.

The black (gray) color of copper and brass can be imparted using various oxidizing solutions.

Sulfur liver is obtained by fusing in a porcelain cup one part of powdered sulfur with two parts of dry potash for 15-20 minutes. When reacting with air, the components of the melt interact. Keep sulfur sintered with potash longer in large pieces - the activity of this sintering is better preserved - in dark glass vessels, hermetically sealed. An aqueous solution of sulfuric liver (potassium polysulfide, also used for the oxidation of silver in order to give it a stable sulfide film) is prepared from 10-15 g of sulfuric liver per liter of water (store no more than a day). The product is tinted by immersion in dissolved by dipping with a rag, then the application of the solution to the product is easier to control, and, therefore, to regulate the depth of staining of the metal surface.

The black color of copper is also given with a solution of this composition: for 100 ml of water - 0.9 g of caustic soda and 0.3 g of ammonium persulfate - at a temperature of not more than 100ºС.

The old masters carried out the blackening of copper according to the following recipe: a solution of copper sulfate is mixed in equal amounts with ammonia (the mixture becomes bright blue), the product is dipped into it for several minutes, then, having been removed, it is heated until the copper turns black.

The same procedure is in such compositions: a solution of pure copper in nitric acid; saturated solution of copper sulphate with the same amount of carbonic soda, then, after obtaining a precipitate of copper carbonate, the liquid of the solution is drained, and the washed precipitate is dissolved in ammonia.

Blackening of copper can be carried out by dipping the product into a solution of ferric chloride in the ratio of one part of it to one part of water.

Gray color is obtained in a solution of 2-3 g of sodium chloride and the same amount of sulfuric liver in a liter of water.

The most saturated color of oxide films on copper - from light brown to brown-black - can be obtained by preparing a solution in combination with ammonium sulfide and sulfuric liver, respectively, in various doses - from 5 to 15 g.

The chocolate color of copper and brass can be given in a solution of potassium chloride, nickel sulfate and copper sulfate - respectively 4.5 g, 2 g and 10.5 g per 100 ml of water when the solution is heated to 100ºС.

A brown color with a reddish tinge is obtained in a solution of 2.5 g of antimony pentasulphide in a liter of 4% sodium hydroxide.

The red-brown color of brass is given by an aqueous solution of zinc chloride and copper sulphate in an equal ratio of parts of zinc and sulphate.

Brown and black color on brass is obtained by treating the product with a solution of 60 g of hyposulfate and 5 g of nitric, sulfuric or hydrochloric acid in a liter of water. Such a solution has a tinting effect for only 20 minutes.

Olive and black-brown color will give brass treatment with a solution of copper oxychloride and ammonia.

Brass turns black in the following solution: 2 tablespoons of copper oxychloride are mixed with two-thirds of aqueous ammonia in a liter of water; this solution must be quickly stirred and corked. A mixture of greenish color will be obtained, and after precipitation - blue-green; in this solution and tinted brass; while the alloy does not lose its luster. The processing time does not exceed a few seconds.

Orange-red in a few minutes, a brass product will make a solution of 5 g of potassium sulfide in a liter of water.

In the old days, brass was also given other, it would seem, completely unexpected colors for this alloy.

Violet color was obtained by immersing the product in a solution of antimony chloride; chocolate-brown - by firing with iron oxide and subsequent polishing with a lead sheen.

The color of the antique patina of works made of copper, bronze and brass can be given by treating them in a solution of 50-250 g of ammonium chloride and 100-250 g of ammonium carbonate per liter of water. It is also possible to do this with the following composition: 64 g of ammonium chloride, 132 g of medium acetic salt and copper and a liter of 5% acetic acid.

A gray-green tint is created with a solution of five components: 50 g of sulfuric liver, 75 g of ammonium chloride, 50 g of iron acetic salt, 60 g of ammonium, 35 g of 5% acetic acid per liter. The black-green color is obtained by replacing the acetic salt of iron with the acetic salt of copper.

Blue-green, close to malachite, the color will create such a solution: 40 g of ammonium chloride, 160 g of sodium chloride, 120 g of potassium tartrate and 200 g of copper nitrate.

The azure color of brass will give a few minutes of being in a solution of 3 g of lead acetate, 6 g of hyposulfite (sodium thiosulfite) and 5 g of acetic acid in 100 ml of water at a temperature of 80ºС.

Copper will turn green in a solution of 20 g of copper nitrate, 30 g of ammonia, 40 g of ammonium carbonate, the same amount of sodium acetate in 100 ml of water (sodium acetate is a mixture of soda and vinegar).

Ammonium in an individual workshop can be tinted in several ways. We will describe those available to a private master, since the electrochemical processing of this metal requires special equipment.

The product, previously treated with alkali (caustic potash or sodium), is washed and treated in potassium tartrate with alkali, then immersed in a solution of 130 g of copper sulfate or 5 g of zinc chromate, 3-5 g of nitric acid and 15 g of zinc fluoride, mixed in a liter of water; aluminum takes on a yellow to golden color.

There is also a way to tint aluminum in a golden color. Coated with a layer of molten paraffin, aluminum is fired with a blowtorch.

Sometimes the product is rubbed with linseed oil or vegetable oil and held over a smoky torch made of roofing felt or roofing felt, emitting resinous soot, the particles of which are firmly connected by hot linseed oil, forming a sulfur color of the coating, and the flame should not touch the metal.

By calcination, products rubbed with drying oil or vegetable oil are also tinted. The resulting shiny film of a certain color will reliably protect the metal from corrosion and give aluminum a piquant decor.

Products coated with vegetable oil will acquire an olive color, with drying oil - red-brown or brown-black.

The easiest way to tint aluminum with simultaneous protection against corrosion is to coat products with oil paints. The color variation here is the richest. But this method is applicable only for aluminum.

But calcination is used in the decoration of steel and cast iron.

Lead is stained gray (dark gray) with citric or acetic acid using a swab on wooden stick. Usually, small items are made from this metal and its alloys of hart and babbit by casting. The product, dyed to the desired tinting, is washed under the tap and dried.

It is known that some plants (herbs) contain various acids in their juice. So, celandine juice contains more than 4 percent of organic acids, including citric, as well as chelidonic, malic and succinic acids; getting on the skin, it causes irritation, burns. Celandine juice is used for blackening small items made of various metals, including lead and zinc.

Zinc tinting is produced in different colors due to its good reaction with other substances that give colored compounds. Zinc is engravable, good for casting, and, as already mentioned, it is conveniently tinted. Zinc is given, among other decors, the look of old silver.

Gray color is obtained with weak solutions of acids. For example, a teaspoon of citric acid and the same amount of copper sulfate in a glass of water. "Lemon" can be replaced, the color is given by treatment with a solution, which includes 1 part of tartaric acid, 2 parts of soda and 1 part of water. This solution is mixed with clay, coated with a product, and after drying, washed in water.

Brown-bronze color is obtained with a composition of 1 part verdigris and 5 parts of acid. The surface is also rubbed with a mixture, dried and washed off.

Copper color gives zinc wetting with vitriol, since zinc is more active than copper.

If you wipe zinc with hydrochloric acid and sand (as an abrasive for preparatory cleaning), and then dip it into a solution of 3 parts of wine-rock-copper salt, 4 parts of caustic soda and 48 parts of distilled water at 10 degrees temperature, then, depending on the residence time of zinc in solution, completely different colors can be obtained on it: 2 minutes - purple, 3 minutes - dark blue, 4-5 minutes - golden yellow, 8-9 minutes purple-red.

The blue color of zinc can also be obtained by a solution of 6 g of nickel sulfate and the same amount of ammonium chloride in 100 g of water.

Zinc becomes green in such a solution: 10 parts of copper sulfate, the same amount of tartaric acid, 12 parts of water plus sodium hydroxide dissolved in water (1:15) - 24 parts.

Zinc can also be made black; for this, the metal must be treated with a solution that includes the following components: 2 parts of copper nitrate, 3 parts of copper oxide, 8 parts of hydrochloric acid and 65 parts of water.

In this way, it is possible to tint (paint, patinate) not only pure zinc, but also galvanized iron.

And in conclusion of the section on decorative metal trim. If it is necessary to lighten some fragments of the embossing relief, details of a sculptural metal work or products made using a different technique of artistic metal processing, these parts are wiped with a swab with fine brick powder (as a fine abrasive that removes oxide contamination), moistened with a tinting solution to create an initial tinting - an even, perfect clean layer of primer. This method is especially suitable for finishing embossed products.

It is useless to achieve a completely black (opaque) film: no matter what color the coating is, the metal should still seem to look through it, hinting even through the decor at its original appearance.

The scope of this coating is amazing, gold paint is successfully used for the restoration of buildings and structures, interior decoration, painting household items, car elements and much more.

What do you need to dye gold at home?

How to paint "under gold" at home?

To paint any object with gold yourself, you need to seriously approach the choice of paintwork materials. The range of gold paints is currently quite wide, so choosing the right shade is not difficult. Gold paint is sold on modern market in the following forms:

1 Aerosol cans

2 hermetically sealed metal cans

3 Instant mixes

What and how you can paint yourself under gold

To date, the most popular and widely available method of painting under gold are spray paints that perfectly imitate this expensive metal. Spray paints can be applied to absolutely any surface: plastic, paper, glass, concrete, metal, etc. Very often, aerosol enamels are used to change the color of a car, since the paint lays down perfectly evenly when sprayed. It can easily and inexpensively ennoble caps on car wheels, as well as such interior items as picture frames, floor lamps, lamps, cornices, furniture elements, parts of smartphones and laptops ... in general, there are a lot of options for using gold paint.

As for the use of gold paints in spray cans in the automotive sector, small parts, plastic body elements, are usually isolated with gold. Sometimes extraordinary personalities repaint a car completely in gold. The question of how to paint car rims with gold yourself is very popular, because this element painted with gold paint alone can emphasize the general appearance of the car. Today it will not be difficult to find a company that would deal with car tuning, but you can paint wheels with gold with your own hands. Just imagine how unusual and expressive the wheels of a car painted in gold will look like: the paint will shimmer playfully under the sun's rays, and the wheels will look especially impressive while driving. The high demand for aerosol "golden" paint is due to the fact that spray paints can be applied even without preliminary grinding and priming of the surface.

Let's take a look at the main benefits of gold spray paints:

1 Spray paints have excellent coverage and adhesion to almost all materials

2 Fast drying, which allows several layers of paint to be applied in a short time (after painting, it is recommended to apply a layer of varnish to protect the surface)

3 Ease of use at home is one of the main advantages of this coating. In addition, it does not need to be diluted and buy paint brushes

4 The result of spray painting is a perfectly even coating

5 Spray paint in cans is economical

Step-by-step instructions for painting with gold paint at home

Step_1 Clean the surface to be painted from dirt with a sponge (brush) and soapy water. If dust and dirt remain on the product, the paint will lie unevenly and the product will have to be repainted. Dry the surface well before starting work.

Step_2 To degrease the surface, wipe it with a solvent or white spirit, then wash off the applied composition and dry the product thoroughly. Step_3 To create a "rough" structure, if possible, sand the surface with fine sandpaper. Grinding will allow the paint to lie perfectly evenly, due to the bonding of the paint and the porosity of the surface. After sanding, the surface will become slightly matte. Properly selected sandpaper will not give the product unwanted roughness, so it is better to choose sandpaper with a grit of no more than 180. Be sure to remove sanding dust.

Step_4 Before painting the product with gold paint at home, glue the areas that cannot be painted with construction tape and a covering film and remove it immediately after the work is completed.

Step_5 Now you can start painting with golden spray paint. Shake the spray in the can for at least 30 seconds, spray the spray paint from a distance of 20-30 cm from the surface. You need to put the paint in smooth uniform movements. After the first layer has dried, which will take 15-20 minutes, apply subsequent layers of paint. When painting "under gold" it is recommended to apply at least 2 - 3 layers of paint.

Step_6 After the spray paint dries, apply varnish in the same way and wait for it to dry. Complete (final) drying takes at least 2 - 2.5 hours. Your golden item is ready to use!

What to pay attention to when painting objects and surfaces with gold?

4 When painting radiators, stoves, fireplaces, etc. for gold, the paint should be not only "gold", but also heat-resistant

5 If you work with an aerosol outdoors, do it in dry and calm weather

6 Once again, we draw your attention to the fact that in order to obtain a more even coating, it is necessary to apply paintwork materials in 2-3 layers. Pause before applying each layer

7 Whenever possible, use paint, primer and varnish from the same manufacturer

8 Do not spray paint near open flames

Summing up, it should be noted that aerosol gold paints have gained really deserved popularity in the last few years, the range of application of gold paint is simply unlimited. They are indispensable for decorating and creating luxurious interiors, finishing small details and painting your favorite gadgets. Gold paint in a spray can has increased brightness and durability, is easy to use and looks great on the product.
Now, after reading the article, you know how to paint any material yourself under gold. Be sure that the product will acquire a bright effect of real gold if you are patient, accurate and creative in your approach to the task!

If this article was useful to you, please rate it (at the top of the page). Thank you!

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Quartering is a preliminary method of purification of gold from impurities. The method is based on the alloying of gold with silver in the following proportion: three parts of silver and one part of gold. The metals associated with gold begin to dissolve when their weight is two and a half times more weight gold. Instead of silver, you can use brass or copper. In order to shorten the reaction time, the molten quartered alloy is poured into water in a thin stream, while the metal takes the form of balls. The resulting balls are then immersed in nitric acid. AT this process ball formation is a necessary step, especially when the alloy is brittle and does not tolerate rolling.

If the copper content of quartered gold is less than 10% with a small amount of lead, concentrated sulfuric acid can be used instead of nitric acid. In this case, the weight of the acid should be three times the weight of the metal. Before the reaction begins, the acid is slowly heated, stirring thoroughly. After the reaction, the acid is cooled and poured into water, the amount of which should be three times the weight of the acid. Gold is placed in a porcelain cup and washed well with distilled water, first using cold, then hot water. At the final stage, the resulting gold is melted. Chemical control shows that quartered gold contains thousandths of other metals.

Separation of gold from copper and other metals using chlorine

This method of separating gold is called the Miller method, it is based on the effect of gaseous chlorine on metals that reduce the purity of gold. The equipment used to implement this method takes up little space, but protection is necessary. environment and operating personnel from exposure to toxic and corrosive chlorine.

First of all, gaseous chlorine reacts with zinc, iron, antimony and tin, then with lead, bismuth and silver, only after that with platinum and gold. The method is used for gold with a breakdown above 700, in just a few hours it can be brought up to 994-996. Leaving the alloy, chlorine carries with it metal chlorides, which are then deposited on the inner walls of the exhaust ventilation.

It does not belong to noble metals, but has long been used for the manufacture of banknotes and decorative elements. People drew attention to the ability of the material to change its color under the influence of time, taking on various shades (from green to black). The oxidation process, accompanied by a darkening of the surface, can be accelerated - this is the blackening of copper. There are several ways to artificially induce a patina (plaque) on the surface of a non-ferrous metal, giving it the appearance of patriarchy and antiquity.

Purpose of patination

The main purpose of using darkened copper is to give the effect of aging to the metal being processed. In ancient times, most items (coins, figurines, various souvenirs, household items) were made from this material. Having reached our time, objects have undergone some transformations - oxidative processes have changed the color and general appearance of these things, creating all the signs of antiquity and, therefore, value.

In our time, copper patination is done artificially, but at the same time they pursue a single goal - to give things a rare look, to attract attention, to arouse a desire to purchase it.

Preparing for patination

As with any work with chemicals, safety must be the first priority. Most of the compounds used in blackening are very toxic. Emitted vapors can be hazardous to health if released into the atmosphere. There are certain standard rules that should not be neglected:

• it is necessary to store substances in special test tubes, tightly closed with stoppers for sealing;
• keep solutions out of the reach of children;
• the process must take place in a specialized cabinet with built-in ventilation (the cabinet doors should be slightly open).

Before processing, the material should be thoroughly washed, cleaned and degreased to achieve the best effect.

Oxidation and patination- these concepts are not synonymous, the consequences of each of these processes differ from each other in order.

Copper oxidation- the formation of oxides and oxides on the surface of the metal due to its interaction with oxygen-containing elements and other certain chemical reagents.

Patination- formation of a thin layer of chlorine and sulfur compounds by exposing the metal to the appropriate compositions. Both processes lead to a change in the color of the material, for which, under natural conditions, considerable periods of time would be required.

Patination at home

There are some of the most common and universal ways blackening of copper. The use of these methods allows using chemistry to achieve the desired result in the shortest possible time. The most popular among them are:

• use of boiled eggs;
• exposure to potassium sulfide or sulfate;
• applying a solution of copper sulfide;
• placement in a solution of copper sulphate with zinc chloride or potassium permanganate.

Obvious visual differences between material exposed to time and nature, or treated with a special solution, are negligible, and in some cases not at all. Therefore, artificial patination is a fairly effective technique.

boiled eggs

The easiest way that does not require special chemicals. All actions to achieve the expected result must be performed exactly, following the instructions:

1. boil eggs (at a high temperature, chemical processes take place in the yolk, accompanied by excretion);
2. after 10 minutes of cooking, remove and cool;
3. after cooling, peel and crush into small pieces;
4. place the eggs with the prepared object in a container, cover with a lid (copper should not come into contact with the eggs, but simply lie nearby);
5. leave the ingredients in the container for 30 minutes or more (the longer the metal is inside, the darker it will become).

As a result, from the interaction of copper with sulfur emitted by a boiled egg, the product should change color, taking on a dark brown hue. The number of eggs used in the experiment depends on the dimensions of the copper object (the larger the object, the more eggs). The method of blackening copper with a boiled egg has two significant drawbacks: fragility and instability. Over time, the result will disappear. The advantage is the simplicity and accessibility of the experiment itself.

potassium sulfide

One of the best ways to darken metal is to use potassium sulfide. Before starting the experiment, the product should be thoroughly washed and degreased so that the patination of copper takes place correctly and gives a good result.

The necessary reagent for the reaction is sold in three aggregate forms: solid, gel-like and liquid. Each type is characterized by a different shelf life: liquid - up to two weeks, solid - several years.

For work, you will again need a container in which sulfide will be diluted. The reagent has a high level of toxicity, so precautions should be taken - be sure to wear gloves and goggles. The procedure itself is recommended to be carried out on the street or in a room with a good ventilation system.

The chemical element is diluted only with water (hot or cold), based on the state of aggregation. Dilution of the solution is carried out according to the instructions attached to the purchase. The solid reagent should first be ground into a powder, and then mixed with water until dissolved.

After completing all the preparations, you can place the copper object in the solution and observe the process of the chemical reaction. First you need to prepare the composition of water with soda (1:16) to stop the action of an aggressive substance. At the end of the process, carefully remove the product from the solution with tongs and place it in prepared water with soda to stop the reaction. The copper patination process is over.

Potassium sulfate is produced during the oxidation of the sulfide at high temperature. Its effect on the copper product is faster. The effect produced is similar.

Use of copper sulfide

This chemical is obtained by the reaction of bivalent copper salts with sulfur. The resulting copper sulfide compound is capable of causing discoloration of copper. Moreover, the quality of the shade depends on the saturation of the sulfur solution.

The black substance used is insoluble in water and dilute acid formulations, so the darkening produced is durable and resistant to abrasion or washout.

The termination of the blackening process, as in the previous method, occurs after the product is placed in water with soda dissolved in it. If the resulting color is too dark, it can be lightened by rubbing with scouring powder. Then the copper object is washed with water and dried.

Patination with copper sulphate solution

It is possible to achieve the appearance of a brown film with a red tint on the product. The preparation of the solution is prepared as follows:

• water is poured into a glass container;
• copper sulfate powder is diluted in it;
• zinc chloride is added and everything is mixed.

The ratio of ingredients: 50% - water, 25% - copper sulfate, 25% - zinc chloride.

Depending on the time the object is in the resulting compound, its color can change from red to brown.

The formation of white-green plaque on copper occurs by immersing the metal in the composition obtained by adding potassium permanganate (5 g per 1 liter) to a five percent aqueous solution of copper sulphate.

Artificial copper color

In addition to the methods described, there are other methods for patinating and oxidizing copper, which make it possible to give the material the following colors and shades:

• brown-gray - when immersed in a solution of sulfuric liver;
• dark gray - when the product is heated in a combination of a solution of sulfuric liver and ammonia;
• brown-black - occurs under the action of platinum chloride (if the result is not satisfactory, hydrochloric acid can be added);
• black - as a result of exposure to ammonium sulphur, diluted in water;
• green - from the application of low concentration copper nitrate mixed with common salt, or from oleic acid;
• golden - from being placed in a heated solution of copper sulfide, caustic soda and milk sugar.

The use of each method gives its own result and differs not only in the color of the patina, but also in the duration of the coating. Sometimes, to protect the product, varnish is applied, then the blackening does not disappear at all from time to time.

Today we will look at how you can turn copper into gold. This is not from the field of alchemy and the philosopher's stone has nothing to do with it. This is ordinary chemistry, and, of course, copper will not become gold, in terms of its chemical and physical properties, but will simply take on the appearance of gold. In this way, you can make gold: a copper coin, a copper chain or ring, or any other items,. In order to turn copper into gold, we need the following ingredients: about ten grams of zinc sulfate, a piece of zinc itself, and, of course, for example, a copper coin.

Zinc sulfate must be dissolved in fifty milliliters and put on the stove. We put a prepared piece of zinc there, and then a copper coin. The coin must be in contact with the zinc. Now turn on the stove and boil it all for fifteen minutes. During the boiling process, you can see that the coin is gradually covered with a layer of zinc. How does this happen? Everything is very simple. In the process of boiling, zinc begins to give up its ions, and the solution is overflowing with zinc ions. Copper, like less, attracts the more electronegative zinc ions. So it turns out that our copper coin begins to be covered with a thin layer of zinc.

After fifteen minutes of boiling, remove the container from the stove and take out the coin from there. The coin can be washed in water to make it cleaner. Now in our chemical experiment, we need to carry out the most important "trick". Namely, we turn the resulting silver coin into a gold one. Turn on the electric stove to maximum heat and put, directly on the hot burner, ours. You will see how instantly silver coin takes on the color of natural gold. This is due to the fact that the zinc layer, as it were, is absorbed into the copper, and it turns out, supposedly, a layer of gold. At least visually, it will be difficult for an inexperienced person to distinguish your coin, chain or ring from real gold.

Why this chemical experience can be useful to you in practice? Well, of course, not for you to turn copper products into, supposedly, gold, and sell them, thus to inexperienced people, at the price of real gold. This, dear friends, is fraught with a long prison term in places not so remote, popularly called the zone. And it will come in handy, this method can only be for personal use. For example, I have a thick chain made entirely of copper. The chain is well made and looks very nice. But wearing copper around the neck is somehow not very aesthetically pleasing, and besides, a black stripe remains on the skin from long wearing. So, I first made the chain silver. And he wore it with a silver church cross (made of real silver). They practically did not differ from each other. Then, when I got tired of silver, I repeated the procedure, and "fried" the chain on a hot stove. Now I wear, supposedly, a gold chain, almost as thick as a finger. Agree, it’s easier than spending your hard-earned rubles on buying real gold. Although this is also debatable. If, for example, you want to keep your money from being depreciated by inflation, then naturally you need to invest it in something. Why not buy gold things for this? They can always subsequently be sold, unless, of course, they are. Personally, I prefer to transfer money to gold in a bank. And you can wear copper for beauty, after giving it the appearance of gold, in the manner indicated above. Good luck, modern alchemists!