What is art in the game. What is the best art in World of Tanks? French branch of artillery
dimensions are smaller than those of the SU-14 (refrigerator), which goes in front of it;
large ammunition;
Faster reload and better accuracy;
when turning the turret of the hull - less spread, which is no less important;
the ballistic trajectory is much nicer than its predecessor, allowing you to reach hard-to-reach targets.
Among the shortcomings can be noted:
ammunition vulnerability;
the maneuverability of this self-propelled guns leaves much to be desired.
Object-212, object-261 and T-92. Object 212 is good for its splash and the strength of the forehead (especially the mask), which allows us to hope for ricochets when hit by large projectiles and the ability to withstand more than one medium hit. that the target will drive off somewhere while the projectile is flying less. 92 in short - the splash pleases, if it hit exactly, it will still hit well.
art in tanks I have c51 flash is good for not lora 155-50 maneuverable 261 for different cards different art is needed, well, how to please in the rondom who your neighbors are or what card will be
The best artillery in world of tanks is, of course, art of level 10 261 objects are very good among the top art, it is from the tree for the USSR, British art is also good, at the second level I like the t57 is very fast in driving and reloading.
I think the Ob261 stands out for its extreme accuracy.
As for the bat chat 155, it is distinguished by a barban and normal accuracy.
The T92 has a rather slanting gun but a big splash.
As for GV tpia E, I don’t know for sure - my jokes.
I think the clearest art in World of Tanks is Object 261.
Here, excellent visibility, speed, maneuverability, you will have the most accurate weapons, the most high speed projectiles - you will appreciate, as well as the ability to shoot from one end of the map to the other.
A very large number of players believe that the best art is Object 261. She has a lot more advantages than the others. This is the most accurate art. Object 261 boasts the highest speed of half a mine.
I found a very good review on YouTube. Maybe someone will be interested
I like ours most of all, domestic. From the top - object 261. And from the low levels - su-26.
Opinions about the the best art in game world of Tanks among users are divided. For each favorite is their own art, and agree, the opinion of another player must be respected, regardless of whether you agree with him or not.
The best art in the Soviet branch is Object 212, Object 261, S-51
The best art in the German branch is Geschutzwagen Panther , Hummel , Gw typ E
any art after patch 0.8.6 is dumb. Because of the nerf, the class of fireflies became useless to anyone, the PT became tuevo hucha. class TT and CT as it was little and left. Think about whether nerf art was needed?
Personally, I give my preference to Object 261. It stands out for its high accuracy. Also here is the largest of all possible speeds of half a mine. Excellent review and very accurate gun. Possibility of firing from one side to the opposite.
The best art of the game World of Tanks.
But there are some downsides as well:
- Too little life, only 650 HP.
- Small ammo: 18 rounds.
- A small angle of horizontal rotation, during the battle you have to turn around, losing accuracy.
- Low yield.
And among German art, GWP is considered the best.
In each branch of development by nationality, there are very good representatives of this technique, but I would still note, from Soviet technology, Object 212.
There is a good review, video guide of Object 212:
Of the pluses can be noted:
On the this moment There are five full-fledged artillery branches in the World of Tanks game. They include vehicles from the second to the tenth level. Artillery branches are possessed by the USSR, Germany, USA, France and Great Britain. China and Japan do not have them, although the developers plan to correct this shortcoming in the distant future. Nevertheless, a newcomer to World of Tanks is hardly ready to upgrade all five (and even more) branches of artillery that currently exist (and even more in the future) just to find out which one is still the best.
Which branch of artillery or which nation available in World of Tanks is right for you, what criteria for choosing vehicles for download, and finally, which branch of artillery to prefer? These questions are answered in this guide.
Artillery in World of Tanks - which branch to choose?
In the Soviet branch of vehicles, it is first worth mentioning the SU-26 (third level), which has a wheelhouse that rotates 360 degrees. It used to be an extremely popular car, but after a series of nerfs, it turned into a solid mid-ranger. Next comes the SU-5, which has neither a cabin nor any acceptable firing range, but it has a very steep trajectory, which allows it to throw shells over obstacles.
At the fifth and sixth level, there are fairly ordinary cars without noticeable pros and cons. But the situation changes dramatically at the seventh level, at which the USSR has two self-propelled guns at once (one opens with the KV-2). They are equipped with extremely powerful guns for their tier, with 102 mm high-explosive shell penetration and 1850 damage per shot. A direct hit on the roof can send a heavy tank even a higher level straight to the hangar.
Soviet vehicles rarely shoot, often miss, but when they hit, they cause huge damage.
Soviet artillery world of Tanks deals massive damage but takes a long time to recharge. Source: wikimedia
But it comes at the cost of terrible accuracy and a reload time of roughly 50 seconds. At the eighth and ninth levels, the gun remains the same, only the characteristics are slightly improved. But the top branch (Vol. 261) is a major change in concept. With a damage of 1700 units at a penetration of 102 mm, it is already difficult to surprise someone, these are weak indicators for the tenth level, but the good aiming speed (6.5 seconds) pleases, and the accuracy is one of the best. And good mobility allows you to quickly change position, which cannot be said about the previous machines of the branch.
In general, the Soviet branch cannot be called monotonous. But most of the time you will have to play on slow cars that shoot extremely rarely, often smear, but with a direct hit they cause huge damage. At the same time, mediocre horizontal aiming angles with long aiming force you to spend a lot of time aiming, and a long reload greatly increases the cost of each miss.
German artillery branch
The German branch of artillery cannot be called monotonous either. For example, horizontal aiming angles are constantly changing, they are best at the seventh level, this machine is generally distinguished by good accuracy and an acceptable rate of fire. But this is compensated by the average damage (1200 units) and penetration (88 mm) of a high-explosive projectile. But good mobility allows you to keep up with the allies and keep at an optimal distance from the enemy.
German vehicles are characterized by a good balance between accuracy and rate of fire, but they are huge and have terrible dynamics.
In general, up to the seventh level, inclusive, German vehicles are comfortable in the game and have a good balance between accuracy, damage, and rate of fire. At the eighth level, damage is seriously increased (up to 2000 units for a high-explosive projectile), and penetration is 105 mm. A similar weapon is placed on vehicles of the ninth and tenth level. But you have to pay for this simply by huge size and terrible dynamics. Moving from flank to flank can take several minutes, often during this time the battle simply ends without your participation. However, for a passive game, when you are standing somewhere near the base, high-level German artillery is ideal.
American branch of artillery
As for the American branch of vehicles, the top branch (T92) immediately catches the eye, which has a maximum damage of 2250 units (!) for a high-explosive projectile when penetrating 120 mm. But the accuracy is one of the worst in the game, the spread is 0.92. However, even a splash can take out 500 or more health points on weakly armored targets. But the rest of the machines of the branch are seriously different in concept.
High-tier American vehicles are almost identical to the representatives of the Soviet branch
Only vehicles of the eighth and ninth levels have significant one-time damage, here they are almost identical to the representatives of the Soviet branch. The cars that preceded them are solid mid-rangers, they are quite balanced in terms of damage, reload speed and aiming, but, on the other hand, they lack bright advantages, so you are unlikely to remember playing them. But, for example, american self-propelled guns the eighth level is considered one of the best precisely because of the comfort of playing on it.
French branch of artillery
The branch of French self-propelled guns is different in that almost all the vehicles in it are made within the framework of a single concept. There are no abrupt transitions, so it is unlikely that you will have to completely relearn when leveling up. But it is important to note that the top of the branch has a loading drum for 4 shells, this is a unique case in World of Tanks, there is no other artillery with a loading drum.
French technique is distinguished by good accuracy and fast mixing, as well as excellent dynamics, which allows you to quickly change position.
But the drum recharges for a long 80 (!) seconds, during which your team can easily lose. Or win, nothing depends on you during these 80 seconds. The lowest single-shot damage among the tenth level self-propelled guns (1250 units) with mediocre penetration (95 mm) is also sad, but you can shoot four times in 18 seconds. All other vehicles of the branch of the loading drum are deprived, but low one-time damage compared to other single-level self-propelled guns is typical for almost all French artillery.
This is compensated by both good accuracy and fast mixing. Add here also excellent dynamics, for example, the top branch is capable of speeds of 62 km / h, this allows you to change position extremely quickly. In general, French artillery involves active gameplay, as far as it is possible on self-propelled guns. It is necessary to change position more often in order to shoot enemies in the side or even the stern. This will have to be done, because low penetration and one-time damage do not allow you to seriously damage most opponents when hit in the forehead.
British artillery
Finally, the British artillery branch is characterized by the steepest trajectory in World of Tanks, which allows you to throw explosives even over relatively high obstacles. But this is where the similarity between the machines of the entire branch ends. At low levels there are self-propelled guns, which do not stand out with anything remarkable, these are strong middlings. But on the sixth level there is the famous FV304, perhaps the most unusual self-propelled gun in the game.
British vehicles are miniature, fast-firing, but the one-time damage and penetration are low. As the level increases, the damage increases, but the accuracy of the hit remains relatively low.
It is distinguished by good dynamics, miniature size (like a light tank) and an extremely weak, but fast-firing gun. It fires approximately every 13 seconds, but the one-time damage (450) and penetration (57 mm) of a high-explosive projectile are extremely small. Moreover, the shooting range is so limited that you have to constantly move behind allied tanks in order to deal damage. But the trajectory of the projectile is such that it allows you to “smoke out” opponents because of positions beyond which other artillery cannot reach them.
The vehicle of the seventh level is a strong average car, its only striking feature is its greater speed backwards than forwards, but they get used to it in a couple of fights. And machines from the eighth to the tenth level are distinguished by high one-time damage with mediocre accuracy. The top branch in terms of one-time damage (2200 units) and penetration (117 mm) of a high-explosive shell is slightly behind the T92, and its accuracy is even worse (the spread is as much as 1.1). Probably, such terrible accuracy compensates, among other things, for the steep trajectory, which allows you to throw shells even behind houses.
Your choice?..
So, which branch of artillery should you upgrade? It's hard to answer, it depends a lot on personal preferences. If you are just starting to play World of Tanks, then the German and Soviet branches are probably the most suitable, they are the most “classic”, you can also advise the American branch, although the top is quite specific due to terrible accuracy.
Start with the "classics" - German or Soviet branches tanks and artillery. But later, switch to the French artillery branch.
If you have been in World of Tanks for a long time, you understand the mechanics of the game well, then you can advise the French, they are the least dependent on VBR, and excellent dynamics allow you to quickly change position, which, with good knowledge of the maps, allows you to take convenient positions. The British, in general, are quite specific, a steep trajectory, of course, allows you to throw shells behind high covers, but the reverse side of it is the most big time projectile flight, it is not easy to shoot with a lead.
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And again, I welcome all those who carefully read the "Tanker's Manual" in the new chapter, which is dedicated to a technique that loves to spit shells across the entire map. Yes, we are talking about Artillery. This specific technique, despite having similarities with any other tank on the battlefield, has fundamental differences in terms of preparation. How to play art in World of Tanks, I will tell you right after you answer the following questions for yourself. Are you ready in every fight to be to blame for the loss of the team? Are you ready to die in the first minute of the battle under the light of a nimble firefly? Are you ready to feel your uselessness in Himmelsdorf? If no reason can break your stubborn decision to become an artilleryman, then get ready to go to dark side strength, enjoying the curses that will fall on your head. Arta works on barter, you are a projectile to the enemy, he is a curse to you, so get used to it.
I think all novice gunners were able to appreciate the adult size of the top art guns in game world of Tank, perhaps for some this was the reason for choosing a specialization, and maybe even an increase in ego, but the main thing that you should have understood is that art was created in the first place in order to shoot! Arta is not the team's eyes, arta is not the team's armor, arta is not the team's sniper, arta is the team's main trunk! Therefore, we will skip the questions of driving, camouflage and other things, and focus on the main thing, on the shots.
1. Meditation. If you have begun to reduce over the goal, then you have a minute to run to the toilet or to the kitchen for tea. But you can’t ignore the aiming, despite the fact that artillery often has to shoot at moving targets, and this has to be done not with full aiming, still try to bring the aiming to the minimum circle. Unconsolidated artillery runs the risk of sending its projectile beyond the borders of our planet and even the galaxy, hitting the death star with a land mine, and then the World of Star Wars will come to the World of Tanks, and why do we need these problems? The chance to hit the death star and the tank without intelligence is approximately the same, of course the Great Belarusian Random sometimes sends your projectiles exactly to the center, but I do not recommend you to wait for such indulgence.
2. We throw higher, further, stronger. Naive heavyweight drivers think that there are many shelters on the maps from our heavenly punishment. Many cover looks like an insurmountable barrier to a projectile, but gunners who have turned to the dark side of the force can correct the trajectory of the projectile. Using force and shifting the aiming center slightly behind the tank, which is behind cover, most likely the corner of the tank's turret will be on the trajectory of the projectile, which is quite enough to get a new portion of curses.
3. A grenade is better than a bullet. Since the doctrine of force is extremely versatile, it is impossible to say unequivocally which shells, AP or HE, are better to use, but do not forget that HEs have an explosive wave, so I would recommend always having at least a couple in the ammunition load. A tank standing behind an insurmountable obstacle, for example behind a building, may not receive a direct hit, but good damage from a splash (explosive wave). I recommend not sparing the projectiles, but hitting the enemy with all your might, because you even deal damage with a splash, and by dealing damage you help the team win.
4. Shooting at rabbits. Tankers are extremely hot and energetic people, they are constantly in a hurry somewhere, sometimes shouting slogans, but behind the noise of the engines you can only hear "oh-lo-lo". It’s hard to hit the tankers who are going, but it’s possible. It is impossible to teach how to do this, but a real artilleryman who has mastered the power, by practicing, will be able to control the speed of the projectile, the speed of the enemy, but I won’t even talk about controlling the trajectory of the projectile and slowing down time, it’s as easy as shelling pears. In general, do not be afraid to practice, over time you will understand at what point, on the path of a moving tank, to shoot and when to hit. I can please you, you will receive 2X curses from a tank that was knocked out on the move.
5. The mother hen does not change places. It is your gaze from the sky that will allow you to find those who are hiding. The gods of the World of Tanks returned tracers to us, so when looking around the standard places where PTs or your colleagues Artovods like to live, you can find tracers. If there is silence or a sluggish firefight in the battle, do not be too lazy to look for tracers, a killed PT or ART without light gives 3X curses and +1 to karma. In this case, the PTs are even easier to kill, they usually return to their places, even if they are scared away, because there are few suitable places for them on the maps.
6. Be above all. You can control the trajectory of the projectile not only with the help of force, but by changing your position above sea level. If you are lower than the targets you are shooting at, then the trajectory will be flat, but as soon as you climb higher, the trajectory will become much more “humpbacked”, this will also affect the accuracy, and most importantly, it will be easier to throw shells behind cover.
The path to knowing how to play SPGs in tanks is quite difficult and the ability to shoot alone will not be enough. The main weapon of the team should be useful throughout the battle, and for this you need to be able to navigate what is happening on the battlefield. The ST has maneuverability and speed, the strands have armor and a supply of life, and the artillery was given "drin" and released onto the battlefield, survive as you like. Therefore, art should be smarter and more inventive than everyone else. Even the lord of strength will not teach you all the tricks, but I will tell you some simple rules that can be applied to every battle.
1. The beginning of the battle around the head. While loading is in progress, evaluate the composition of the team, you, as an artillery guide, should be primarily concerned about the presence of fireflies, both in the opposing team and in your own team. Further, there can be many layouts, if the enemy has 2 fireflies it is better to run, if the enemy does not have fireflies, and your firefly writes: “a candle immediately”, then you need to stand and come down to the enemy’s base. If your firefly illuminates the enemy before the opponent's CT does, then you will kill their artillery earlier, respectively, there will be no reason to be afraid of your own illumination.
2. Distribution of gift suitcases. Choosing the wrong target is probably the second big mistake of art. Arta must select targets in the following order: Arta, PT, Heavy. If Arta tries to cover the enemy CT with fire across the whole map, which usually fights with the allied CT, then all sorts of crap turns out! During the flight of the projectile, the STs change places and the projectile hits an ally or shoots his harp with a splash, even if you just missed, then there is nothing good in this either. You can shoot at ST only if you have converged into a certain square, and there, purely by chance, the ST was under the gun, which, in addition, was shot down by the psaltery. If the situation on the battlefield is such that only STs are fighting, and the bands are sitting in the bushes, it’s better to look at enemy tracers, there will be more benefits.
3. Art walks through the fields. There is an opinion that the safest place for art is its own base, but this is a lie that the forces of good spread, so that you never become an art guide with dark power. At the beginning of the battle, I recommend that the artillery move to the flank where the most strands went. It's safe to hold on to the heavily armored rears of the bands, and the bands tend to collide with the bands in the direction, and the closer you are to the point of combat, the faster your projectile will reach the target. But this is only at the beginning of the fight, if your bands are moving forward, move after each shot after them. Standing at the base is very unwise, that's why. Fireflies always fly to shine artillery on the base, they do not look for you in other places, especially where there are accumulations of strands, because it is difficult to fly past them. There are 3-4 directions of approach to the base, if your bands broke through one direction, then perhaps the STs lost in the other direction and they are already flying to the base, but you don’t care, you are not at the base! If the enemy is already at your base, and you are far from it, you can freely turn around and hit back to help break the capture, and if you stay, they will first kill you before the capture begins.
4. Life is on the move. The last point, just for the sake of remembering it better than the rest, I will advise you to move. Remember that the enemy team may also have students of the dark force who are looking for you through tracers. Therefore, after each shot, immediately move forward or backward. If you have slow art, carry oil or a twisted ESC with you, it will help you run faster.
I wish you to master the science called "how to play art in the World of Tank" and successfully use all the tricks of the great art guide, and the great power of the monster will come with you!
As already mentioned, artillery is considered by many "respectable tankers" to be something of a necessary evil. It seems to be annoying, it seems to be in no way without it ... Firstly, you can play the self-propelled guns literally with one hand, and with the other you can drink tea with cookies measuredly. And secondly, you don’t even have to go far, substituting under the shells, after the start of the battle - you know, sit in the bushes near the base and wait for the next thick enemy to light up to send him a good gift in the form of a landmine or two. Fortunately, the guns are not deprived of damage - self-propelled guns easily take out almost any target with one hit.
However, the "art" also has disadvantages, among which, at a minimum, are a long reload time and extremely thin armor (in most cases). Therefore, like it or not, like it or not, but the team has to protect its self-propelled guns, since it is very difficult to have an advantage over the enemy without artillery at all.
1. Don't ask for trouble. Artillery is not a tank. At the forefront of the battle, it will be filmed before you can say the word "one shot". Sit on the edge of the map and don't lean out.
2. Get into a comfortable position. Most often, the best deployment for self-propelled guns is the corner of the map near the base. Preferably one where there is a hill, so that as much of the map as possible can be shot through.
3. Follow the progress of the battle and the minimap. In World of Tanks, there is a “light” for a reason, and “art”, not for the sake of beautiful views, knows how to look at the battlefield from above. Follow the course of the battle and shoot first of all those who are difficult to take out with a single shot from a conventional tank: TT, ST and tank destroyers. And if one of the enemies came to visit you - RUN, as you would run from the suddenly returned husband of your mistress. Or hide.
4. Is the enemy close? Direct fire! The enemy is close, but has not yet seen you? Press Shift to exit the howitzer mode, aim at the enemy, press RMB to lock on the target, and then ... prescribe him the very “one-shot” from the harmfulness of the direct fire itself!
5. Not sure? Do not shoot! Wasting state shells in vain is not only bad, but also inefficient! Remember that your gun reloads for a long time, and during this time you can always miss a good chance to knock out a particularly tasty and plump tank of the enemy team. It is better to wait for this chance for another second than to "peel" for good luck.
6. Be proactive. The guys from Wargaming did their best and made “real” shells in the game that really fly through the air. This is not for you Counter strike: GO, where the enemies are killed by the crosshair and the sound of the shot. Like real ballistics, in World of Tanks, there is a lead - the expected position of the target, by the time the projectile reaches. Therefore, if you are going to "bomb" the other end of the map, then estimate how far your target travels during the flight of the projectile (up to 3 seconds). This will be the approximate value of the lead.
7. Shoot "bomb" between enemies. Instead of wasting extra shells on each of the enemy tanks and extra time for reloading, it's better to send a high-explosive "handsome" directly between two or more nearby adversaries. Everyone will be hurt.
8. Sometimes you can shoot blindly. If you still have a lot of ammunition, and you noticed how someone invisible knocked down a tree, damaged a building, or even fired ... Urgently send a projectile there! Here the enemy will be surprised! Even if you don’t hit, then, most likely, drive him from a secluded place, and there the light of your allies is not far off.
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Artillery is a rather specific type of vehicle: a small amount of HP, no armor, the ability to shoot across the entire map (at least for most self-propelled guns) and huge damage per shot (for example, the average damage of a top gun of level 6-7 Soviet self-propelled guns is 1850!) .
It may seem that playing on self-propelled guns is the easiest, it’s not for nothing that gunners are also called “one-button” ones: stay in cover and slowly shoot at someone else’s light. But on self-propelled guns, as well as on other types of vehicles in World of Tanks, it is quite easy to achieve average results, but it is very difficult to achieve real mastery.
Any battle begins with the choice of position. What should be a convenient position for artillery? On the one hand, you should be able to fire at the enemy (preferably in several directions), that is, there should not be, for example, a house in the line of fire directly in front of you.
On the other hand, good position should hide you from opponents, that is, you should either stand behind bushes (preferably double ones), or in a lowland. The latter option is preferred when firing direct fire at medium and close ranges: you need to stand up so that only part of the gun will protrude, that is, you can easily shoot at the enemy, and it will be difficult for him to hit you. It is also desirable that there is a reliable cover near your position, for which you can hide for a while if you are spotted.
On most maps, such convenient positions are located right next to the spawn or base, but this does not mean that you should always stand on them. If you are the only one on the SPG in the team, then you can get up wherever it suits you, but everything becomes more complicated if there are allied SPGs. No need to crowd two or three of us in one position.
Firstly, you can tritely prevent each other from shooting. Secondly, it will be easier to identify you by tracers. Thirdly, it will be easier for opponents to hide from your fire. Always try to stay away from the allied SPG, ideally, you should take positions in different corners of the map to cross-fire on the enemy, deal more damage (you can hit the sides or stern), drive him out of cover.
Just because you've taken a position doesn't mean you have to stay there like you're glued to it until the end of the fight. In random battles, this is a very common situation: the opponents hide behind cover, and the allied self-propelled guns stand in one place and do not change position, even if there are no available targets for it. This is a gross mistake.
If the opponents hid behind covers and are afraid to lean out, then you should change the position so that you can reach them. It is possible that you will have to travel a decent distance. Also, the position must be changed if you see that the opponents have destroyed the allies on one of the flanks and are moving towards you. No need to be heroic, you can only take one shot, and then you will be noticed and quickly destroyed.
Need to change position good light you will be able to make much more than one effective shot, deal much more damage. If you are on a slow self-propelled gun, then in such cases it is better to change the position in advance: when you see that the enemy is pushing through one flank, you do not need to wait until the last one, immediately retreat.
Also, do not forget that you can be calculated by tracers. So after each shot, you need to at least roll back a little forward or back. A lot depends on where you stand. If you are located near a respawn or base in a position popular for self-propelled guns, then there is a high chance that you will be identified by tracers. If you get into an unexpected and rarely occupied position by self-propelled guns, then the chances fall to a minimum. Naturally, if the enemy artillery was destroyed, then one should not be afraid of calculating the tracers.
Now directly about shooting and choosing targets. Self-propelled guns are characterized by long aiming and a very long reload time. If at low levels this is not so noticeable, then already at the sixth level, mixing can take seven seconds, and reloading - thirty. That is, you must choose the target carefully, shoot only when you are almost one hundred percent sure of the hit.
Only two SPGs have a fully rotating turret: the SU-26 and the Bat Chatillon 155. The first is a Soviet Tier 3 SPG (the most popular SPG in low-level battles), the second is the pinnacle of the French SPG branch. Some SPGs have pretty good traverse angles (like the GW Panther), and on some you have to constantly turn your hull.
In order for the sight to stray less in this case, you need to clamp right button mouse, rotate the body, and then align the sight with the circle of information. If you turn the body slowly, then the circle of information will increase quite a bit, you can almost immediately take a shot.
Slow heavy tanks are the easiest to hit, but they have the thickest armor, meaning you won't be able to deal much damage if you hit them head on. Medium tanks, on the other hand, do not have as thick armor, but are much more mobile, therefore, it is more difficult to hit them. It is necessary to try to shoot either at stationary medium tanks and tank destroyers, or at the side and stern of any tanks. To do this, you need to change position more often, fire from positions unexpected for the enemy.
There is no point in trying to hit moving light tanks, you will only use up the projectile in vain and waste time reloading. But if you can get a “firefly” lurking behind a shelter, then be sure to shoot, a high-explosive projectile will inflict full damage due to thin armor. Here again, advice is useful to change position more often. In general, you need to move a lot on self-propelled guns, from one position in most battles you will not do too much damage.
In random battles, allies will rarely cover you, so it is quite possible that an enemy light tank breaks through to you. In general, if the enemy is inexperienced and rushes in a straight line at you, then you have a great chance of destroying him, and one shot is enough for you. If the enemy wags, moves in an arc, then it will be very difficult to hit him. In most cases, it makes sense to go straight to cover, because an enemy self-propelled gun can open fire on you, and hope that the enemy light tank will be destroyed by the allies.
If the allies spotted an enemy self-propelled gun, you do not need to immediately reduce to it, first assess the situation. Maybe the allies will destroy it themselves, and your help will not be needed. If you still converge on an enemy self-propelled gun, then inform the allies about this by pressing F2 "Attack". This will be a signal to the allied self-propelled guns so that they do not shoot at your target.
If an allied self-propelled gun points to any target with the “Attacking” signal, then this target should not be attacked: firstly, it is simply ugly, secondly, one of you will use up the projectile in vain, and often even one shot of self-propelled guns can decide the outcome of everything fight.
In general, enemy SPGs should be a priority target. Also, do not forget that inexperienced gunners often remain in place after the light. So if you don't even see the enemy, shoot at the place where he was found. You will most likely destroy it.
You also need to remember that self-propelled guns often hit the roof of enemy tanks, where armor even heavy tanks high levels can be, for example, 30 mm, that is, you will inflict maximum damage. The projectile can also hit the observation devices, then the damage will also be maximum. So it is necessary to aim precisely at the roof of the tank, and not the forehead.
Since you often shoot almost across the entire map, the projectile flies for one and a half to two seconds, you should always remember this and take the lead. Hit a moving medium tank with long distance you are unlikely to succeed, especially if it turns, but it’s not difficult to hit a heavy tank moving in a straight line even from a long distance.
In most cases, you need to use high-explosive shells, they have relatively low penetration, but the damage can be partial (in the case of armor-piercing shells, they either pierced or did not pierce, there is no third option). Also, high-explosive shells inflict a lot of critical damage, which greatly weakens the enemy and increases the chances of your team to win.
It should also be remembered that land mines have a "splash", that is, they do not hit a point, like armor-piercing ones, but a small area of several meters. Thus, it is possible to damage several opponents. If the projectile exploded a few meters from the enemy, then the damage will be small, but there is a high chance of knocking down the caterpillar. Just don't forget that "splash" can also hurt allies, be careful.
Often, HEAT shells are available on SPGs, which can be purchased either for gold or for a large amount of silver. In many situations they can be useful, use them if possible. There are also "gold" land mines, the feature of which is a large "splash". In general, they do not pay for themselves, but can be useful, for example, if you knock down a capture from a base.
Also on many self-propelled guns high levels you can shoot armor-piercing projectiles. They have a lot of damage, so it's tempting to shoot only them. But do not forget that in most cases your projectile hits the enemy at a high angle. For high-explosive shells, this does not matter, but for armor-piercing shells, in this case, the role of ricochets and non-penetration increases. In general, it is rational to use armor-piercing shells only when firing direct fire or even at close range.
That's all. In company and clan battles, self-propelled guns can deal up to 80% of damage, in random battles this is hardly possible: you are rarely covered by allies, and the light often dies almost in the first thirty seconds. But you can still deal massive amounts of damage. The main thing is to calculate each shot and change position more often.
