Nfs pro street setting for flu. The best cars to play. Damage and markers

For the thirteen-year history of the development of the series Need for Speed one pattern was noticed: every second part of NFS, as a rule, turned out to be much worse than the previous one. The pranksters called it the "curse of even-numbered episodes". If we take as an example what happened to the famous race after the release of Underground - namely, Underground 2 and Carbon - then the smile turns into a grimace. Every year we ended up in the same type of city, drove the same cars and did the same thing with them: screwed bumpers, dressed up the body with vinyls. The Underground idea was slowly dying - and the eleventh part of NFS, ProStreet, was simply forced to become something new.

Do not wonder. This is not another arcade game from EA with fantastic controls. In fact, EA has created a completely new genre: the simulation street racing. A hybrid of stylish body kits and airbrushing "Fast and the Furious" and the harsh romance of circuit racing settings adjusted to the millimeter.

But don't tell that to producer Michael Mann. His EA Black Box team responsible for NFS: Most Wanted, wants to distance ProStreet from the Fast and the Furious as much as possible. This game is not a continuation of the series, but a significant deviation from the traditional course. A completely new direction.

Welcome to our races

At the next corner, the speed advantage will put us ahead.

The odious 1200 forces of the "Zonda" make it invincible in almost all types of races.

What is the first thing we all like to see in racing? Of course, a realistic damage system. So, now we will see dents, burst tires and torn bumpers in abundance. AT previous parts the game lacked this, it must be admitted.

For some, it's just another good game in the collection, but for esports players, it's a new battlefield. For the first time, the NFS series lit up at the championships in 2002. The history of cyber competitions began with Hot Pursuit 2, but it was from the time of Underground that this racing series was tightly registered in most major tournaments, along with such bison as Counter-Strike, Warcraft III and Starcraft. Need for Speed is presented at the World Cyber Games, Europe Cyber Games, ASUS Open, Russian Championship, Moscow Cup, Russian Cup, ClanBase Open - the list is long...

Racer Arsenal

Now let's figure out which devices are best used to control your virtual car.

Steering wheel

The steering wheel in any part of the NFS is usually the optimal manipulator. In addition to ease of use, the wheels also win hundredths of a second (and at the Pro level they decide a lot) due to the smoothness in turns. On sale there is a great variety of different steering wheels; prices range from fifty to several thousand dollars. Consider the best steering wheels that have proven themselves in NFS.

Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel

Reliable Logitech Formula Force EX.

Affordable Logitech MOMO Racing Wheel.

A time-tested veteran, it has been produced for more than a year. This handlebar is most common among riders due to its affordability and reliability. MOMO has six convenient programmable buttons, the steering wheel rotates 240 degrees, the mounting system tightly fixes the steering wheel at three points, the rubber-coated steering wheel provides a comfortable grip and precise control, the gas pedal allows you to fix the car's acceleration quite clearly.

Logitech Formula Force EX

A kind of budget version of MOMO. Interesting features include a unique steering wheel molding technology that ensures no seams and eliminates the use of screw connections, so you can grip the steering wheel without creaking, crackling or bending. It is worth noting that the steering column switches on this manipulator are the most convenient. Small in size, they allow very precise and fast gear changes. There are situations on the track when you need to drop from fifth or sixth gear to first or second; a striking example is the last hairpin turn on the Bay Bridge track from NFS: Most Wanted or a hard cutoff on the official WCG 2007 track - North Broadway from NFS: Carbon.

Logitech G25 Racing Wheel

The dream of any virtual racer. With a deep range of settings, this steering wheel is perfect for any racing game.

The G25 rotates 900 degrees (i.e., like in a real car, 2.5 turns), has a six-speed shift lever separate from the steering wheel, with reverse pressing, there is a convenient option for switching the gearbox from manual mode to sequential transmission mode .

Accelerator, brake and clutch pedals are made of stainless steel, which gives them additional reliability; Separately, I would like to note the gas pedal - never before has the dosage of the accelerator been given so easily.

Top Logitech G25

Keyboard

As a rule, most players use the keyboard. Achieving significant results on the keyboard is very problematic - or rather, almost impossible, since using the keyboard, you will lose an average of 0.75 - 1 second per circle due to the sharpness of the wheels. Handlebar riders win those nuggets with smooth turns and subtle fuel control. In NFS, a gap of 0.75 - 1 second is approximately 50-80 meters, and this is a serious advantage.

Gamepad

The gamepad is a good alternative to the steering wheel, but will require more practice to get stable on the track. Its obvious advantage over the steering wheels is only one - the size, with the gamepad it is much easier to drive around the various championships. good options will become Logitech Dual Action and Logitech Rumble Pad2.

Logitech Dual Action

This gamepad features two high-precision analog sticks with digital buttons for smooth 360-degree control. Fast Plug-and-Play connection allows you to immediately start the game, and this is a big plus, since in the championships 15-20 minutes are given to set up equipment and vehicles.

High-precision Logitech Dual Action.

Logitech Rumble Pad2

Old but still alive model. Appeared about two years ago, but is still relevant. The buttons are pressed easily and distinctly, they have a fairly large stroke (more than 1 mm). Shifts, however, are a little tight. The hats of analog sticks are large, with a rubber finish and practically do not slip when playing. The body is entirely made of rough, pleasant to the touch plastic.

visual tuning

Don't forget to warm up your tires!

External tuning is one of the few components that have not changed much since the previous parts. This, unfortunately, is not very good. Just like in Carbon, you can choose from three body kits, hoods, spoiler, roof buckets, wheels, etc. The number of parts remained almost the same, but now they can be modified. All changes in the autosculpt mode affect the characteristics of the car, namely the maximum speed and downforce. All body work is carried out in a wind tunnel, where you can immediately see the impact of all changes. This is very convenient when creating a car focused on a specific class of racing.

The paint system of the car has also changed a bit, but the categories like “flags”, “tribal”, “unique vinyls”, etc. have been preserved. The number of maximum layers has increased, now there are thirty of them. Note in brackets that there were only four of them in the first Underground.

To install the vinyl on the other side of the car, now you do not need to move it through the entire body, as there are key places from which the sticker can then be moved and changed (twisted, enlarged). All vinyls will be open from the very beginning, which is undoubtedly a plus.

Lamborghini has all-wheel drive, which means it holds up best on the track.

Knurled blackness - this is the trajectory of the track.

As in the previous two parts, by pressing the corresponding button, the photo mode is activated. You can still rotate and zoom the car, as well as upload photos to the EA server. Personally, we would like settings for brightness and contrast, shutter speed and focus. But the developers promise that in addition to the photo, the characteristics of the car will also be published (maximum speed, acceleration from 0-100 km / h, hp).

Tuning, in comparison with the previous parts (except for Porshe), has stepped forward a lot. If you want, change the stiffness of the springs and shock absorbers, reduce or increase the ground clearance, adjust the engine and turbocharging control unit, and if you wish, create the necessary downforce on the front and rear axles of the car. It takes a lot of time and effort to set it all up correctly and get a good fast car. In addition, the tuning process is purely individual, since everyone feels the car and controls it differently. Someone likes cars with "blurred" handling, when the car seems to skid on a turn; some gravitate towards sharp and responsive steering, while others need balanced handling altogether.

The autopsy showed

Not enough strength at "Audi", bypass on a straight line.

Let's move on to disassembling the insides of our iron horse. The tuning screen evokes nostalgia for Underground 2. Do you remember that crazy amount of settings and details? Something similar awaits us in ProStreet. The developers have slightly eased the task of tuning compared to U2, removing the options for installing individual parts on the engine and suspension.

But before we get into the actual fine-tuning of your supercar, let's take a look at what affects what. After testing all the performance packages, we made the following conclusions. It turns out that Tier 3 performance packages aren't always better than entry-level packages. Since the tracks are different - high-speed, with an abundance of hairpins and chicanes - you need to select packages depending on what result you want to get, whether it is maximum acceleration or maximum speed, excessive or insufficient steering sensitivity.

It is interesting: A chicane is a series of tight, winding turns (usually in the shape of an S) on a road used in auto racing and on city streets to intentionally slow cars down. They are usually located at the end of long straights and are therefore the best places for overtaking in modern racing.

And yet what is responsible for what? Let's go through the ingredients...

Engine performance packages affect overclocking and require adjustment.

Transmission affects acceleration and top speed and, like the engine, requires fine tuning.

Turbocharging (Forced Induction) affects acceleration dynamics. It is configured in conjunction with the engine.

Suspension affects speed performance and control. There are a lot of settings options, so that everyone can customize the control of any car for themselves.

Brakes affect the control only at the moment of braking. Settings as such are not required, the effect on the behavior of the machine is not too great. It is better to slow down by downshifting and reducing the fuel supply.

Tires affect acceleration and handling. Surprisingly, for the first time in a long time, different tires have a different effect on the behavior of the car - now it's not just "turn better" or "turn worse".

Nitric oxide (Nitrous Oxide) has an effect only at the time of its use, the packages differ in the number of cylinders (from one to three).

Body.As far as exterior tuning is concerned, details such as rims, roof air intakes, seats and frame do not affect performance. But combined body kits (Body kits) and spoilers (you set the values in the autosculpt mode) can significantly affect aerodynamics and handling.

There are four levels of detail and four levels of power, stability and vehicle aerodynamics. If you put the engine, turbo and transmission at the same time in the third level, this will give the overall performance of the fourth level. But the fourth level of details is something like unique details in the previous parts. On LAN championships such as WCG, ECG, ASUS CUP, these details will most likely be banned. We advise you to use them only to squeeze everything out of the car and defeat opponents in network mode.

Having picked up the necessary performance packages and tested the car at the factory settings, you can safely move on to fine-tuning “under the hood”.

mechanical heart

Suspension

As tests have shown, there are only two settings that affect the acceleration dynamics. These are the ride height and the stiffness of the front and rear springs (spring rate). If you move the sliders to the left, the car will cling to the asphalt, and this is fraught with a loss of speed. If you move the slider in the opposite direction, acceleration will be worse due to a decrease in downforce. These settings must be selected separately for each track - that is, find the minimum value at which the car does not touch the road, but also does not “dangle”.

A very important point is the adjustment of the clearance, otherwise called "ground clearance". Too high values of this parameter lead to a deterioration in cornering stability (due to the “wing” effect, the air flow lifts the car), and too low values \u200b\u200bcause a change in the geometry of the suspension and a deterioration in handling (too low a landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise, instead of turning you will fly off the track). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics, it is necessary that the car be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose.

Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each one separately.

Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft—Stiff)

The compression ratio of the front / rear shock absorbers (soft—hard)

A softer suspension will absorb bumps in the road at the expense of handling. We set the maximum rigidity, since we have racing tracks, not city tracks. In addition, the rigid suspension prevents body roll when turning.

Front/Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft—Stiff)

The elasticity of the front / rear shock absorbers (softly—hard)

The speed at which a shock absorber returns to its original state after compression. We put on the most rigid position. The shock absorber absorbs part of the energy of the spring vibration and prevents the car from “loosening” in different directions. Soft suspension is good off-road, and we need maximum rigidity.

Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft—Stiff)

Front/rear spring rate (soft—hard)

A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more inconspicuous the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will “talk” in different directions, and the behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrollable skid, but this is irrelevant on the track, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine.

Ride Height (Low—high)

ground clearance (low—high)

It is important that the clearance matches the suspension settings. The higher the car is raised, the higher its center of gravity and, therefore, the stronger the rolls when turning. In addition, there is a very high chance of rollover. The tighter the car, the lower the center of gravity and the more precise and responsive the handling. In addition, the low landing provides better aerodynamic qualities.

Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft—Stiff)

Anti-roll bar (softly—hard)

The anti-roll bar prevents the vehicle from rolling in a turn. Of course, a machine is not a pendulum. The swing here is barely noticeable, but very important. The fact is that the suspension of the car is designed so that the tire is parallel to the road. In a turn, the car rolls (along with the suspension, of course) and the contact area of the tire with the road decreases, which means that the grip decreases. The stiffness of the stabilizer should be set to three-quarters to improve cornering stability, but not to risk it, because an excessively stiff stabilizer can make the car behave unpredictably.

Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low—high)

Front/rear tire pressure (low—high)

Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for racing car. The formula is simple: at high pressure, the car seems to fly over the road. Top speed and acceleration are better, but grip is worse. If the pressure is low, the contact area of the rubber with the road is larger, which means that the grip is better, but the speed characteristics are worse. The best option is to make the pressure lower in the driving wheels, and higher in the driven ones.

Camber (Positive—negative)

Camber (positive—negative)

Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Simply put, if you look at the wheel from the front (with the wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out, it is negative camber; if the lower one is positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on the oval, and even then only on the inside wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum.

Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this position of the wheel, and the maximum speed decreases. We conclude that the convergence should be set closer to the "plus", but not far from the neutral position.

Toe (Positive—negative)

Convergence (positive—negative)

Convergence - the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive convergence is when the wheels are directed inward, and negative convergence is outward. Negative toe improves handling by providing sharper steering feedback. Positive increases stability on the road. The setting depends on the specific track, but in general it looks like this: if there are a lot of high-speed turns on the track, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, tight turns, try moving the slider to a negative position.

Caster (Positive—negative)

Pivot tilt (positive—negative)

Increasing the tilt of the kingpin increases the stability of the machine on the trajectory and the speed on the straight line at the expense of poor controllability. The deterioration is insignificant, so put it in the extreme right position.

Steering Response Ratio (Loose—Stiff)

Rudder feedback (free—hard)

This value adjusts the steering sensitivity. Stiff steering helps to clearly pass a series of sharp turns, but at high speed any inaccuracy will lead to loss of stability and make the car uncontrollable. At speeds above three hundred kilometers per hour, a wrong move will cost you a car.

It is important: learn the trajectory and run around the track at standard suspension settings. Once you hit a stable time barrier, you can begin to analyze what can be improved and start changing the chassis settings. Only in this way will you feel the results of all those changes that you will make.

Tires

Tire settings do not affect speed. Higher level packages improve starting acceleration, but more speed is lost in corners (apparently due to different traction). Depending on the route, the necessary packages should be selected, so there are no specific instructions. Try and check.

Engine

For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in the previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power falls on maximum speed. No wonder, because it is at maximum speed that the whole race takes place.

Nitrous (Nitro)

Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in speed and power of the engine. Too high a value can lead to slipping and loss of control, too small - to the fact that the nitro will burn out, and you will not even notice it.

Gearbox (Drive train)

Unlike the Carbon, here the gearbox setting is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but the tachometer needle gets to high speeds much longer. Start running the track at the factory settings of the box, and having understood at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.

It is important: for a quarter-mile drag, we recommend this setting: make the first gear longer to get into the ideal zone at the start; the second and third are set as short as possible. We make the fourth gear the longest, on it you just need to turn on the nitro. A half-mile drag is almost the same, but you can use nitro twice, which means you need two long passes. The second and fourth are just right.

Brakes

Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed.

A little practice

In drafting, there is a danger that the pilot in front will suddenly apply the brakes.

Since there are collisions between cars in the game, it is necessary to correctly calculate the strategy for the start and subsequent race. In other words, we either, knowing the tactics of the opponent, get ahead from the start and try not to lose the advantage in the first half of the circle, and in order to consolidate the gap until the end of the race, we play on defense; or we skip the opponent forward and try to immediately settle down behind. If you take a position exactly behind the enemy car, a draft is activated - a system for calculating the air cut and the resistance of the car body. As soon as the distance between you is within 0.1-0.5 seconds, you will be able to pick up speed one and a half times faster due to reduced air resistance. This needs to be played. Wait until the enemy has used up the entire supply of nitric oxide. He won't get far from you because of the draft, but you will have nitric oxide left for a lightning-fast winning spurt.

Need for Speed is not circuit racing. Tactics and styles are born right on the track here, so don't be afraid to improvise, the game is conducive to this.

The correct setting of the machine provides only a quarter of the total time, everything else is a verified trajectory of movement. Therefore, the key point, of course, is experience. So don't waste your time and practice more. Only in this way can you achieve significant results.

MECHANICAL TUNING

Complete Guide

1. Introduction.

Need for Speed ProStreet - the first attempt by EA to move away from the main line of the series genre in the direction of legal competitions in racing disciplines. The game received a lot of feedback, both positive and negative. However, this game still has a sufficient number of fans who liked races of this kind - legalized competitions for street racing fans. But not everyone can figure out and master the tuning system that was implemented in the game; sometimes the names of the settings and hints not only make it difficult to understand the principle of operation, but are also misleading. To rectify the situation, I tried to put together the available material and reveal the veil of secrecy in the intricacies of tuning car parameters.

2. General provisions.

In Need for Speed ProStreet, mechanical tuning is divided into 4 groups:

- suspension tuning - the most extensive and indigestible group of settings, which, nevertheless, has the maximum effect when tuning driving characteristics;

- engine tuning - no less important group responsible for traction characteristics. The settings in this group have a greater effect on vehicle acceleration;

- transmission tuning - another group of settings that affect acceleration and speed;

- brake tuning - a group of settings that optimize the operation of the vehicle's braking system. It may seem that these are the least important settings, however, the speed and quality of passage of certain sections of the track directly depend on properly adjusted brakes, which affects the final result of the race.

In the next part of the manual, all settings will be described in as much detail as possible.

3. Detailed description settings.

3.1. Suspension.

As already noted, the correct suspension setup is the key to a successful finish. Why this is so - you will understand when you read to the end of this part. It is worth noting that the developers included in this group also the controllability setting (steering sensitivity) and tire pressure adjustment. All settings of this group can be divided into several subgroups, namely:
- adjustment of springs and shock absorbers;
- clearance adjustment;
- adjustment of the stiffness of the cross beams;
- tire pressure adjustment;
- wheel alignment adjustment;
- steering sensitivity adjustment.
Let's move on to a direct consideration and description of the settings of each subgroup.

SPRINGS AND SHOCK ABSORBERS.

Compression level front and rear shock absorbers determines the speed at which the shock absorbers will respond (compress) to interaction with road surface irregularities. Softening the compression level (setting the engine to the left) will smooth out the effect of road bumps, but will worsen the car's handling, and vice versa.

Rebound level front and rear shock absorbers determines the rate at which shock absorbers return to their initial state. For optimal results, the developers recommend setting the rebound levels to be the same as the compression levels.

The stiffness level of the front and rear springs. Two factors depend on the settings of these parameters - the reaction of the car body to bumps and the steering of the car. Stiffer springs will increase steering, but will also increase sensitivity to bumps in the road. Softening the springs will have the opposite effect.

In order to fully understand the mechanisms of action of shock absorbers and springs, as well as the main difference between them, let's draw an analogy. Imagine the usual, most simple ... cart. In fact, this is a car consisting of a body, a wheel frame and no suspension. The wheel frame is rigidly tied to the body, which is why any unevenness in the road surface through the wheels is reflected on the body. To reduce the effect of potholes on the road, we will separate the frame from the body and place springs between them. The difference will be felt immediately: the reaction to bumps will become softer, the body will shake much less, the sensations will be as if you are in a boat. However, according to the laws of physics, any division of a whole object into its constituent parts also separates the physical forces that take place in each of the new parts. Imagine again a cart without springs entering a turn: since this is a single whole, then it will turn quite well. But as soon as the body is separated from the frame, it begins to “live its own life”: when entering a turn, the frame follows the desired course, but the body tries to move straight by inertia! However, the springs fulfill their connecting role and drag the body behind the frame. It can be assumed that the stiffer the springs, the better the steering of the cart will be (the force that, by inertia, tells the cart body to move forward will decrease), but at the same time the sensitivity of the body to bumps and potholes will increase. By softening the springs, we will get the opposite effect, that is, we will reduce the steering of the cart, and at the same time the sensitivity to irregularities will also decrease. Now consider the effect of spring rate on the front and rear of the car (cart). Given the above, it can be argued that softening the front springs will reduce steering and increase the likelihood of demolition of the front of the car on rear-wheel drive vehicles. Increasing the stiffness of the front springs will lead to improved handling, and the effect will be more pronounced in front-wheel drive cars. Softening the rear springs will increase the rear end of the car (which is more favorable for drifting), especially under hard braking. Increasing the stiffness of the rear springs will increase handling (skid control) in rear-wheel drive cars.
Let's get back to our cart. By installing springs, we reduced the impact of road bumps on the body, but after a certain period of time we realize that comfort has not increased to the extent that we would like. Sharp changes in the vertical direction (large potholes or stones) will still be felt by the body. To avoid the influence of irregularities in such situations, so-called shock absorbers - shock absorbers are installed. Their direct task is to reduce the effect of vertical disturbances that occur when driving on the road surface. Despite the seemingly simple function, everything is not so simple here either. The figure shows a combined system that combines a spring (red) and a shock absorber (blue). The principle of operation of a shock absorber is similar to a pump: the piston moves inside a cylinder filled with gas or liquid. The occurrence of unevenness under the wheel causes the piston to move up, which ensures smoothing of sharp blows; then the resistance forces in the cylinder push the piston back, thereby returning the wheel position to its original state. Consider the effect of shock absorber stiffness on handling, as well as the processes during compression and rebound. Setting a soft (slow) compression will reduce the impact of potholes on the car body, but at the same time increase the wheel travel in the vertical direction, which will negatively affect handling, since the wheel will continue to move up by inertia after overcoming an obstacle, until it loses contact with the road surface. Setting a hard (fast) compression will eliminate the sag effect and increase traction, but at the same time increase the impact of bumps on the car body due to insufficient piston travel inside the shock absorber. A hard (fast) rebound will allow the wheel to quickly recover to its original position, which will restore traction, respectively, faster, while a soft (slow) rebound will contribute to the slow return of the wheel to its place, which will also negatively affect handling due to loss of traction with the road. expensive. According to the recommendations of the developers, the compression and rebound levels should match. Whether it is worth following these recommendations is up to you, but practice shows that sometimes mismatched settings lead to much better results. And a couple of words about setting the front and rear shock absorbers. As with springs, the effect is different depending on how your car is driven. In the case of rear-wheel drive, it is desirable to have stiff rear shock absorbers to provide maximum grip on the surface, a similar situation for front-wheel drive cars. Hopefully now everyone understands the difference between springs and shock absorbers: springs provide cushioning for uneven road surfaces, separate the body from the chassis and act in all directions; shock absorbers smooth out elevation changes on the road and work only in the vertical direction.

CLEARANCE.

Clearance determines the distance between the lowest point of the car body (bottom) and the road surface. Despite the seeming simplicity of setting, there are complex physical processes behind this parameter. General principles: high ground clearance will increase the likelihood of a car overturning in corners and worsen braking; too low clearance will increase the likelihood of bottom contact with the road surface, which will lead to problems in handling bumps, however, on flat roads, the stability of the car will increase markedly. Ground clearance adjustment is usually closely related to damper stiffness: stiffer damping systems can significantly reduce ground clearance, and vice versa, increasing ground clearance will allow you to install softer shock absorbers.

CROSS BEAMS.

One of the most mysterious settings. Let's try to figure it out: the cross beams help prevent radial drift of the car when cornering. When the car begins to enter a turn, for example to the left, the body of the car continues its inertial movement forward, thereby counteracting the movement to the left and dragging the car to the right. To compensate for this effect, cross beams were added to the car's design, rigidly connecting the left and right sides of the suspension. When the right side of the suspension begins to compress during a turn, it tries through the crossbeam to cause the opposite effect on the other side of the suspension, that is, to raise it. But this is physically impossible due to the rigid fixation of the other end of the beam. The torsion resistance that occurs in the beam when it is twisted prevents further subsidence of the right side and returns it to its original position.

Based on the above, it can be assumed that an increase in the rigidity of the cross beam will improve the steering of the car, while the effect of demolition of the front end will be less pronounced. However, the excessive rigidity of the beam predisposes the car to rear end skidding, which makes the car uncontrollable in sharp turns.

TIRE PRESSURE.

Tire pressure has a direct bearing on the area of contact between the tire and the road surface and therefore has an impact on the steering performance of the vehicle. According to the formula,

Area = Mass / Pressure

that is, there is an inverse dependence of the contact area on pressure. It is clear that the higher the tire pressure, the smaller the contact area with the road and, conversely, with a decrease in tire pressure, the contact area increases. How does this affect steering? Everything is also simple: the smaller the area of contact with the road, the easier it is to make the wheels slide on it. By increasing the pressure in the front tires, we will increase the likelihood of front end drift; by increasing the pressure in the rear tires, we will increase the likelihood of skidding the rear of the car.

A LITTLE REAL MAGIC.

Perfectly this science (adjusting the position of the wheels, or adjusting the alignment) is owned only by a select few who do these things every day in production or tire fitting. Let's try to expose this magic and shed light on the most secret places of autotuning.

So, get acquainted: TOE (convergence), CAMBER (collapse) and CASTER (caster).
First, let's define terminology. Toe-in is the angle between the plane of wheel rotation and the normal direction of travel. Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Custer is the angle between the vertical and the axis of rotation of the wheel. Let's look at each option in more detail.
Convergence determines driving stability and steering when cornering. Positive convergence (toe-in) increases stability in a straight line, but worsens understeer; negative convergence (toe-out) acts in the exact opposite way - it significantly improves control when cornering, but at the same time, increased sensitivity worsens stability when driving in a straight line. It is clear that a positive convergence is better to choose for high-speed fast races with smooth turns, while a negative one is better suited for short race tracks full of turns of varying degrees of difficulty. And yet, front-wheel drive cars should preferably have a slight negative toe, rear-wheel drive - a slight positive, all-wheel drive - neutral. These preferences are determined solely by the physics of the processes during movement and can complement the settings described just above.

collapse determines the quality of tire adhesion to the road. Mostly in all cases, the camber should be neutral, this will provide the maximum contact area of the wheel with the surface of the coating and increase stability in control. It is allowed to install a small negative camber, this will slightly improve cornering. It is believed that positive camber is unacceptable, since it significantly impairs vehicle handling. But a great secret is hidden here: if you approach the issue without too much zeal and with special care, you can increase acceleration and speed, thereby achieving better results in passing the track. But I will not recommend it, because this is the case when stability and control are much more important.
Custer determines the sensitivity of the control. It's just that simple. Positive caster is almost always set (as in motorcycles), which improves straight-line stability at high speeds. However, on short winding tracks, a small negative caster is allowed: this will allow you to go through corners at a slightly higher speed.

STEERING SENSITIVITY.

There is nothing military in this adjustment: setting the engine to the right will make the reaction to the steering wheel turn more responsive, moving the engine to the left position will reduce the sensitivity of the car to turning the steering wheel.
What you should know when choosing the desired position of the engine: approaching the extreme positions can lead to inadequate results, such as skidding the rear and demolition of the front. What it is is shown in the pictures below.

Skid (oversteer)- a consequence of setting high (stiff) control sensitivity.

Demolition (understeer)- a consequence of setting low (loose) control sensitivity.

Wheel position at controlled skid (countersteer). The technique most commonly used in rally racing and drifting.

3.2. Engine.

All settings described below affect vehicle acceleration and driving speed. The main quantities used in this kind of settings are torque (torque) and power, expressed in horsepower (horsepower). In this case, the following relationship takes place: an increase in settings in favor of acceleration (an increase in torque) will cause a decrease in maximum speed (a decrease in power), and vice versa. What to give preference to depends on the type of race and the type of track.

As with the suspension, engine settings can be divided into three subgroups:
- adjustment of the valve timing;
- turbocharging adjustment;
- nitro adjustment.
Let us shed some light on these mysteries.

PHASES OF GAS DISTRIBUTION.

Valve timing is the main component of the balance of power and engine torque. To fully understand the ongoing processes, you need to read a dozen and a half good-quality articles describing the operation of an internal combustion engine. I'll try to do this in a couple of pages. Below is a diagram of a typical four-stroke internal combustion engine. Its working cycle consists of four cycles, successively replacing each other for two revolutions of the axis:
1 cycle - the inlet of the fuel-air mixture into the working area;
2 stroke - compression of the mixture caused by the upward stroke of the piston;
3 stroke - expansion, or stroke, caused by the explosion of a compressed fuel mixture, while the piston moves down;
4 stroke - release of exhaust gases.
Then everything repeats.

Designations:
intake cam- intake camshaft exhaust cam- exhaust camshaft spark plug- spark plug, intake valve- inlet valve, exhaust valve- Exhaust valve, piston- piston, connecting rod- connecting rod, crank- crankshaft fly wheel- flywheel, clutch- clutch, gearbox- reducer (gearbox).

From the above diagram and short description It can be seen from the work that the distribution phase is the period of time between the inlet and outlet of the fuel-air mixture. To change this time, various technical solutions are used: from changing the initial position of the camshaft to the use of automatic systems for adjusting the distribution phase. I will give an example of one of the simple solutions - replacing the camshaft. The figure shows an example of an oversized camshaft (left) and a conventional camshaft (right). Due to the steeper eccentric bevels, the intake valve opens earlier and stays open longer than with the standard shaft. This causes the flow of a larger volume of combustible mixture into the cylinder, which in turn provides a microexplosion of greater power and, as a result, an increase in the rotation speed.
Let's go directly to the adjustment. Setting the engine in the direction of advance (advance) will shift the boundary between the separation of torque and power (see formula above) towards higher speeds. This will lead to an increase in overall power, and, consequently, the speed of the car. On the contrary, setting the engine to the left, in the direction of delay (retard), will shift this border towards low rpm and improve acceleration.

TURBOCHARGING

Strengthening (boost) forcing air into the intake manifold (intake manifold), in which the fuel is mixed with air, affects the resulting mixture: the more air there is in this mixture, the more power can be obtained from the engine's combustion chamber. Start boost affects low engine speeds, thereby improving acceleration. End boost (end boost) affects high speed and contributes to the speedy achievement of maximum speed. Setting the sliders to the right increases the effect, to the left it reduces it. A few words about the difference between a turbocharger (turbo) and a supercharger (super-charger). Despite the equivalent tasks performed by both systems, the differences in the principle of operation are quite strong.

Turbocharger(left) runs on exhaust gases, which, getting from the engine into the turbine compartment (through the brown pipe), rotate it and at the same time the compressor wheel. The compressor draws in air from the atmosphere, compresses it and sends it under pressure to the intake manifold. Supercharger(right) activated by direct connection to the engine via a belt drive: one of the compressor rotors being driven activates the second rotor; untwisting, this system sucks in air and also sends it to the intake manifold. Both systems have their drawbacks: the turbocharger is a power failure at low revs due to a lack of exhaust gases, the supercharger is a rigid connection with the engine, which causes power loss. However, at present, thanks to progress, both problems have almost no effect.

NITRO.

We have all seen cylinders with the inscription NOS and we know what is in these cylinders - nitric oxide, aka laughing gas. This gas is used to produce a richer fuel-air mixture. As a result, such a mixture contributes to a very active increase in engine power. Without going into the intricacies of nitrogen supply systems and the processes taking place at the same time, let's go directly to the description of the settings.
The supply pressure determines the force with which nitrogen oxide is added to the air/fuel mixture. Increasing pressure increases acceleration, but may cause the cylinders to empty quickly; low pressure may not be enough to perform the desired maneuver (overtaking or accelerating).
The exhaust rate determines the amount of nitrogen oxide that will be supplied to the fuel intake system. Increasing this setting also improves acceleration, but may cause loss of control or shift problems; reducing the feed rate will prolong the effect of the nitro, but will also reduce the power of this effect.
The combination of these two settings gives the maximum effect for different types of races: in drifting, it is desirable to reduce both settings to get a smooth and long drift; in high-speed races, a slight increase in pressure and speed will effectively bypass opponents; in dredge, the maximum increase of the two parameters, combined with the optimal setting of the gearbox, will achieve the best results.

3.3. Transmission.

Transmission is a chain of transmission of rotational energy from the engine to the drive wheelset. It starts with a clutch disc that connects the engine crankshaft and the gearbox input shaft, and ends with a differential that connects the driven shaft (in the case of front-wheel drive) or the cardan shaft (in the case of rear-wheel drive) to the wheel axle. The task of the transmission is to optimize the engine speed so that the car can start and move in any situation.
To start, a little introduction.
All interactions in the transmission are carried out with the help of gear connections. Imagine two gear wheels, one with 20 teeth, the other with 10. The initial rotation is reported to the large wheel, and it sets the small one in rotation. In this case, the larger wheel will be driving, and the small wheel will be driven. For one revolution of the large wheel, the small one will make two revolutions, that is, it will rotate faster. The ratio of the number of teeth between the driving and driven wheels is called the gear ratio and in this case will be 20:10 or 2:1. As a result, we will get an increase in transmission.
In the reverse situation, when the initial rotation is reported to the small wheel, and it drives the large one, for one revolution of the driving wheel, the driven wheel will turn only half, that is, it will rotate more slowly. The gear ratio will be 10:20 or 1:2 and we will get a downshift. Thus, by connecting different wheels, you can get different gear ratios. This is exactly what is implemented in the gearbox.

Designations:
clutch - clutch disc, layshaft - intermediate shaft (in two-shaft systems - drive), output shaft - driven shaft, selector fork - gear selector fork, dog gear - gear shift clutch, 1st ... 5th gear - gears.

The gears on the drive (intermediate) shaft are fixed rigidly and rotate constantly (except for gear changes when the clutch is disengaged). The gears on the driven shaft are in engagement with the driving ones, but they are in contact with the shaft itself through bearings. Thus, the rotation of the input shaft and the driven gears does not cause the rotation of the driven shaft. This task is performed by shift clutches, which can be moved along the shaft by means of shift forks. The forks themselves are directly connected to the derailleur. Moving the switch handle causes the corresponding clutch to move along the driven shaft and initiates the engagement of the latter with the driven gear of the transmission. As a result, the driven shaft begins to rotate at a speed proportional to the gear ratio. This is the basic principle of operation of a standard gearbox.

However, the converted rotational speed is still too much for the wheelset. To convert the resulting number of revolutions into an acceptable one (for gripping the wheels with the road surface), a differential is used. Its main task is to coordinate (differentiate) the rotation of the wheels of the driving wheelset during cornering: thanks to the geared decoupling of the axle, the wheels can rotate independently of each other. But we will consider only his work as the last downshift (final drive gear).

Designations:
input pinion gear - drive gear, ring gear - differential rotor, cage - differential box, left/right drive pinion - left/right axle gear, captive pinions - satellites.

The rotational movement from the driven shaft of the gearbox (or from the driveshaft in the case of rear-wheel drive) is transmitted through the input pinion gear to the differential rotor (ring gear). This sets the wheels of the car in motion, but due to the fact that the number of teeth on the rotor exceeds that on the drive gear, the gear is lowered, and, consequently, the speed of rotation of the wheels is reduced. Despite the fact that the transmission is a reduction gear, the ratio is written in reverse, that is, with a 9-tooth drive gear and a 41-m driven gear, we get a gear ratio of 41:9 or 4.55:1. Let's move on to the settings of this group, which are divided into two subgroups:
- setting up the gearbox;
- Differential setting.

TRANSMISSION.

Gearbox tuning comes down to choosing the ratio between gears. Setting the knobs to the left (short) will allow you to quickly reach the high rpm required to shift into the next gear. Setting it to the right (tall) position will increase this time, allowing for faster speed. Frankly, this could have been written about right away, but I wanted to explain how the whole system works to help you avoid mistakes when choosing gear ratios. In conclusion, I note that the first gear is needed only to move the car from its place, while the rest are used for acceleration.

DIFFERENTIAL.

The situation is the same as with the gearbox: reducing (short) the final gear ratio will allow faster acceleration, but can lead to slippage at the start, especially with a powerful engine installed. Increasing (tall) this parameter will result in smooth acceleration and an increase in top speed.

3.4. brakes.

Brakes are needed to stop (or slow down) the car. Unlike the previous sections, I will not give any art and explanation - everything is clear here anyway.

BALANCING THE ACTIVATION OF THE BRAKES.

It is believed that in the neutral position of the regulator, all brakes are activated simultaneously. Theoretically, this should provide a smooth braking distance. Shifting the regulator towards the front brakes (front) will ensure their earlier operation in relation to the rear ones. As a result, we get a skid of the rear of the car and a possible improvement in steering. The result of shifting the adjuster towards the rear brakes will be front drift and more stability when braking at high speeds.

BRAKING FORCE.

In this case, it means the pressure with which the brake pads (calipers) are pressed against the brake drum or disc. Theoretically, the higher this pressure, the faster the car should stop (or slow down). In practice, this is only part of the process, but I will not focus on this. I will only note the fact that in order to cope with the increased braking force, it is necessary to “change shoes” on wheels with better rubber, otherwise the effect will not get the desired result. An important note: it is worth remembering that improving the braking system will allow you to perform more extreme maneuvers - braking at high speed a little later than your rivals. This is what I meant when I mentioned the increase in the results of passing races. An equally important note regarding the handbrake: the handbrake only works on the rear wheels. Its use is useful for drifting and for short winding distances, as it provides a fairly controlled skid. Increasing the pressure of the hand brake will provide a more abrupt operation. This is recommended for normal racing but not recommended for drifting. Applying too much handbrake pressure can cause the rear brakes to lock up and cause you to leave the track.

4. Conclusion.

Many will have a question: why is this all? After all, the game is a “failure”, a lot of graphic glitches, etc. etc. I will answer: the game itself is excellent. The graphical implementation is lame - yes, but the machine control system implemented in the game makes you think about the great work done by the developers. I'm not trying to convince someone to change their attitude to the game - this can only be done by one's own efforts. I just filled in a significant gap made by the developers - the lack of high-quality Russian-language documentation and a concise description of mechanical tuning. Whether I succeeded or not is up to you. In any case, thank you for taking the time to read the material presented.

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Guides

Say hello to the eleventh game in the Need for Speed series. It just so happens that the odd games in this series come out as masterpieces - remember at least Porsche Unleashed or Most Wanted. These games are deservedly recognized as the best in the series. Their even brothers were much less fortunate - for some reason they always cause a lot of controversy and disagreement. Carbon, Underground 2 is a great example of games where a good idea received the wrong development. Need for Speed Pro Street, to be honest, falls short of Most Wanted, but its very appearance is very important. You just need to figure out what are the shortcomings, and what are the prerequisites for the ideal Need for Speed.

World of professionals

With the light hand of EA, the action of the game moved from the streets to the autodromes. You can immediately forget about the huge city from Most Wanted, and at the same time about the traffic and the police. We will not be allowed to smear another black-and-white sob on a monstrous truck with logs or a concrete mixer. ProStreet is a world of legal racing, fair competition and sporting spirit. It is not very clear what the word “Street” does in the title, because there are no streets, only polygons and tracks. Such a move looks at least strange. All games in the series had streets and roads general use and a chance to smash your iron horse against an oncoming truck or bus. What does the new game offer in return?

Many years ago

Came out almost eight years ago, perhaps Best game series - Porsche Unleashed. Many, however, did not appreciate the work of the developers, believing that due to the bias towards realism, the whole game process. All those who liked to touch the wall at a speed of 200-300 km/h got burned painfully, because in the fourth and fifth parts the player was punished financially for injuries. Eight years later, the damage model was returned to us - however, greatly simplified compared to the same Porsche. The car crashes, repairs cost money, but don't empty the player's pocket. The mechanism is surprisingly simple: let's say you accidentally hit a concrete block at a speed of four hundred kilometers per hour. After a couple of pirouettes, you will find out that the cost of repairing a car is equal to your earnings for a couple of dozen (!) Races, but instead of money, local car mechanics accept some markers - prize badges, for which you can both eliminate minor damage and repair a shattered one according to all the canons car beyond repair. Tokens are issued regularly, and you can buy them for a ridiculous price. The choice is yours. If you are a fan of realism, pay only money for repairs, and if you are closer to the spirit of Most Wanted, markers are for you. Fortunately, the damaged car is not too different from the whole - except perhaps in appearance.

Step into the abyss

Recalling Underground 2 and U.R.L. - ring, for four or even six circles, you immediately remember the irresistible longing. Too long "survival" tracks do not really fit the spirit of the game, and in ProStreet they have finally been removed - circuit races are surprisingly dynamic. All types of competitions are built in such a way that the player does not linger on them. Drift tracks have shrunk enormously. Drag now does not aim to dodge an oncoming or passing car, but, on the contrary, forces the player to concentrate on precise gear shifting and maximum acceleration. The new type of competition, named "Speed Race", is the embodiment of the spirit of the series. All the tracks here are as smooth and even as possible, there are no sharp turns, so it is recommended not to lower the mark on the speedometer below 300-350 km/h. Harden your suspension, pump up your tires to the limit, and go for pure speed.

About sad

How much can you patch up the worn-out engine of the same, the first Underground? Initially, of course, it caused a storm of emotions. The owners of video cards with Shader Model 2.0 were especially happy. The game, of course, slowed down, but there were no such effects anywhere else. The crowning achievement was Most Wanted. The breathtaking sun reflecting off the wet asphalt, the roofs of the houses and the sides of the car - the picture in Most Wanted was magnificent. In Carbon, due to the exclusively nighttime driving, the game has lost most of the charm. ProStreet simply doesn't have that charm. Add to this not the best technical performance. For example, I did not notice much difference between 2x and 8x anti-aliasing, but the FPS dropped by about 20%. shader beauties previous versions also not visible - but how I wanted to admire the play of light on the chrome sides of my Lamborghini!

The plot, oddly enough, also falls into the chapter "On the Sad" - it simply does not exist. If in the first games of the series this was forgiven, since the main goal - speed - was clear anyway, then in ProStreet the battle for the driver's crown looks unnatural. What for? Who is this strange man in the helmet? In the same Most Wanted, the player was simply not shown. The camera "out of the eyes" perfectly hid the character, everyone imagined themselves in the driver's seat, and everyone was happy. This technique has been used for a long time, and, to put it mildly, it is strange to see a mysterious figure without a face.

A few words about the main

Like it or not, ProStreet is a real, thoroughbred Need for Speed, you just need to see its virtues behind an unnecessary external husk. Many were waiting for a repeat of Most Wanted, but instead, EA conducted another experiment. The experiment is undoubtedly beautifully and tastefully designed, stuffed with cars and spare parts, but poorly corresponding to the spirit of the series. Perhaps this is a step towards a new Need for Speed, in which the developers will collect all the best from the entire series, and chop off the unnecessary and boring with a big ax. The main thing is that this step should not become the starting point into the abyss of oblivion.

	ADVANTAGES	LIMITATIONS
Fascination 9	diversity, no matter how strange it may sound in relation to racing	the lack of street tracks did not benefit the game
Graphic arts 8	perfectly licked car models	the engine is not wine, it does not get better from time to time
Sound 10	the best musical score in the history of the series	not noticed
Game world 7	bright and memorable style of play	no plot
Convenience 10	very convenient difficulty settings	No

Management and damage

Road

From the previous parts of the ProStreet series is very different. Particularly noticeable changes in the behavior of cars. In my opinion, the differences in the drive are now better felt, and the machines themselves differ not only in the “agility” parameter. Each car has its own stability and stability on the road. Try it for yourself in a BMW M3 E46 and a Dodge Viper after that. Both have rear-wheel drive, but the difference is felt instantly. Truly German rear-wheel drive from the front and you will not distinguish.

All cars in the game are equipped with ABS, SM and TC systems, which can be disabled at any time in the game menu (Options, Gameplay, Mode options). The anti-lock braking system (ABS) prevents the wheels from locking, so when braking the car does not carry where it is not needed and it can be controlled. Considering that most players do not have pedals to adjust the braking force, ABS should be left, as pressing the brakes on the keyboard will lock the wheels. Electronic Stability Control (SM) assists the vehicle in cornering. This system adjusts the suspension on the fly and also prevents rollover. Useful, but not critical, you can turn it off for a thrill. The stability control system helps the car tenaciously stay on the road, preventing skidding and wheel slip. The computer can interfere with the engine at any time to maintain stability. In the game, stability control is better off, because the computer inside the cars has a very strange concept of "danger of slipping." You will simply lose speed where it is not necessary.

It is interesting: A hybrid of stability and stability systems was created by BMW, and it is called ASC + T (Automatic Stability Control + Traction). This system is designed to improve traction on icy or wet roads.

The time dilation mode has sunk into oblivion - that's where it belongs. To be honest, it was not very suitable for a computer. The fact is that the keyboard buttons have only two positions - pressed (on), not pressed (off). There are no half-presses at all, so the wheels of our virtual machine turn immediately to the extreme position, which leads to a huge loss of speed. Yes, and the need for it has disappeared - why slow down time on the circuit?

Opponents

The old schemes for dealing with opponents no longer work. Not only will you crash your car, but you will also lose speed. In ProStreet, you need to get ahead of opponents, as in circuit racing, playing on the difference in speed and passing corners as close to the inside as possible. Don't forget the "air tunnel" that is created behind the car. Attach to the tail of the nearest enemy and, gaining speed, overtake. This effect is achieved due to the fact that the car in front cuts the air masses, taking on air resistance.

In speed races, you can hustle, where going off the track is almost equal to losing. It is especially useful to push near trees, fenders and telegraph poles, as a broken car is eliminated from the race without the right to "reset".

It is interesting: you can hit the wall with a swing and go further, although in real life such a blow would destroy the engine cooling system and the latter would jam in a couple of minutes. However, at the same time, a coup on the roof is the end of the game.

Complexity

because of new system the complexity of the game, I decided to attribute it to management. Previously, this parameter reflected only the behavior of enemy vehicles and the frequency of all sorts of unpleasant accidents, such as drifts, air strikes and civilian vehicles popping out of nowhere. In ProStreet, the complexity was renamed to “assistance level” (Assist), and there are only three of these levels: “beginner” (Casual), “racer” (Racer), “king” (King). On the "newbie" everything is simple. You can forget about the brakes, because the car herself reduces speed in turns, and does it extremely delicately, without resorting to the brake pedal. The revs drop, the speed drops, and you calmly go through the turn. You won't even notice that kind of help if you let off the gas before the maneuver. Computer opponents are more like lost tourists - they do not resist and calmly let you go ahead.

The "racer" level is somewhat more difficult. The car is more obedient, although it still shamelessly slows down in corners.

It is interesting: I wondered for a long time how this BMW M3 can drop speed from 250 to 100 in less than a second, but I attributed it to wonderful German pads. But a few races on highways sobered me up. As soon as the computer slowed down several times without my knowledge, I realized that there are no magic pads.

This phenomenon is very annoying in speeding races, because the computer wants to slow down (and you can’t prevent it) at the most unfortunate moment. Turning off the stability control systems slightly saves the situation, but the effect is still noticeable.

And finally, the last level is "king". This is real hard. Don't expect help from a computer guardian; everything depends on you.

Damage and markers

The damage model has been greatly simplified compared to the fourth and fifth parts. There are three levels of weakness of the iron horse.

Light damage. Slight impact on the chipper, wall or enemy. Driving characteristics are reduced slightly.
Strong damage. Hitting the corner of a concrete wall at 250 kilometers per hour. Significantly reduces the driving performance of the car, which, however, does not interfere with winning the race.
Damage incompatible with life. After the inscription "Totaled" the race ends. That's it, there is nothing to ride on, so there is a repair and restart ahead.

You can smash the car to smithereens, but until you go beyond the level, you will not notice a difference in dynamics. On the other hand, light damage does not necessarily affect driving performance. If you just scratched a door or fender, there will be no loss.

So, we figured out how to take damage. Now let's figure out how to restore ward cars. Let's start with the fact that it is necessary to repair the car. Broken cars can only be used in one competition. There are two types of repairs - for money and for markers. There are two types of markers: the first type removes minor and serious damage, the second restores the machine after complete destruction. These valuable pieces of paper are issued after the end of the "racing days", besides, they can be bought. Buying markers, however, is useless, since with reasonable use they are quite enough. Just don't fix your car between rides. Wait until the cost of damage exceeds the earnings from one race, and then use the marker. In addition, you can drive a damaged car “all the way”, and then repair it. In the later stages of the game, it's even easier - eliminate damage for money, the cost of which is less than the price of the marker.

There is also a third type of markers - it has nothing to do with repairs. Such a marker drops out randomly, it can be exchanged for any car from the store.

Competition

racing days

It would seem that there is still something new to come up with? It's racing! But no, EA invented or modified.

Firstly, now the races are now combined into "race days" (Race day). To pass the "racing day", you need to score a certain number of points, a certain amount of money is supposed to win, and let's not forget the lottery. Remember the markers in Most Wanted after defeating a blacklisted member? There is something similar here, only instead of paying off the police, you can win repair markers or spare parts for cars.

But after the victory, the competition does not end, there is a "second victory", called "dominance". For it, even more money is given and an additional chance to win something useful in the lottery.

Part of the competition takes place on cars provided by sponsors, and the winner can take one of his choice. On the one hand, it is convenient that someone else's car can be beaten as you like, it will still be repaired for free. On the other hand, you cannot customize the provided machine, so you will have to get used to its behavior “on the go”.

Races and points

So, in order to win "race day", you need to score a certain number of points. These points are awarded for winning (or losing) a race, and each type of competition has an additional modifier. For example, in drifting, drift points are added to the total. In addition, an additional bonus is due for the “clean” passage of the race, but it is insignificant and can be neglected.

This is the advice: do not repair the car between races. Between light damage and their absence - one touch. And between light and heavy - a whole abyss of blows and grinding. If during the race you have not reached the level of breakdown, then at the end of the race the prize for the “clean” passage of the track will still be credited.

Races are divided into four types: lap, drift, drag and speed. Each species (except drift) is divided into several subspecies. Let's look at them in more detail.

Circuit racing includes:

Circle (Grip)- normal arrival on the ring road. Whoever came to the finish line first, he won.
Circle with division (Grip Class)- eight participants are divided into two groups so that the engine power is in the same range. Cars from another group have nothing to do with the player and just get in the way on the track.
Sector Shootout- The route is divided into four segments. Starting, you start the timer, but instead of time points. When you cross the sector line, current points are added to your account. If you break your own or someone else's record, points are added again. In addition, the owner of all four sectors is one-time plus 500 points.
Time Attack- the usual circuit race, only the lap time is taken into account. All opponents also ride with you, but start a few seconds earlier. If you can outrun them, you are guaranteed to win.

Optimal car: with all-wheel drive. The fact is that front-wheel drive cars are not very powerful, while rear-wheel drive will contribute to skidding in corners - unless you have pedals or a joystick to smoothly adjust the fuel supply.

Additional modifier: target time. If you pass the track faster than the developers expect, you will get extra points

Drag includes:

Drag classic 1/4 mile (1/4 mile Drag)- conventional 402-meter drag. The winner is the one who puts the best time of arrival. In other words, the opponent on the right (or left) is only for beauty, because you are chasing time.
Drag 1/2 mile (1/2 mile Drag)- the extended version of the drag allows you to apply nitro twice, which is what you need to use. Otherwise, it does not differ from its classic counterpart.
Wheelie competition“Willie” is movement on two wheels. In our case, only the rear wheels are taken into account. This is the essence of the competition. You accelerate, turning the nose of the car up to the sky, and drive in this position as much as you can. Naturally, in order to compete in this form, you need a rear-wheel drive car, and a separate one is better.

Before each race, whether it's a classic or a wheelie, you are offered to warm up the tires. It is necessary to keep the engine speed in the specified zone in order to reach the optimum temperature, and therefore better traction. In fact, there is no special effect from this - most likely, this is only to maintain the atmosphere.

It is a myth: Tires don't warm up like that. From such warm-ups, the rubber simply burns out, remaining black spots on the track. Road grip only gets worse as the tire wears out and becomes "bald".

It is important: do not forget that the dredge takes into account the temperature of the engine. If you don't change gear for too long, causing the tachometer needle to dance in the red zone, the engine will seize up. However, this is not damage. Overheating equates to a false start.

Optimal car: for a dredge, you should choose a car with the best combination of power / speed. Popular American muscle cars like the Chevrolet Corvette 67’, for example, are only good in movies. A lot of power, little sense.

Any rear-wheel drive car will do for a wheelie, although many choose the Dodge Charger R/T. Don't be fooled by screensavers! "Willie" is great on the Zonda, you just need to remove the downforce and maximize the grip.

Additional modifier: target time. Each race is given a target time, and if you complete the course much faster, you will get extra points.

Speed racing includes:

Speed challenge- a greatly simplified analogue of the sprint, but it did not become worse from this. Even the sharpest turns here are passed at a speed of at least three hundred kilometers per hour. A pleasant competition, where, however, it is very easy to shake the car beyond recognition.
Competition for the best speed (Top speed run)- analogue of "Speeding" from Most Wanted. Only the speeds have become higher, and the tracks are smoother. To pass this type of races, I recommend setting the level of assistance to the "king".

Optimal car: rear or all wheel drive. There are no sharp turns, so there is no need to be afraid of drifts.

Additional modifier: target time. Here the target time is the easiest to beat, sometimes it is possible to improve the result even by a whole minute!

drift endowed with varieties. In fact, this is the same race as in the first Underground, but now it has become more like reality. It's really hard to make drifts, there are no multipliers, there are no prize points on the edge of the track either, and so on. But hits and damage only affect the prize for "purity", and nothing more.

Optimal car: I advise you to choose a front-wheel drive car for drifting. Machines of this type are better controlled during a skid.

Additional modifier: skid points. They are added to the total. Drifting is the best way to break records.

1 2 All

Suspension- As tests have shown, there are only two settings that affect the acceleration dynamics. These are the clearance (Ride height) and the stiffness of the front and rear springs (Spring rate). If you move the sliders to the left, the car will cling to the asphalt, and this is fraught with a loss of speed. If you move the slider in the opposite direction, acceleration will be worse due to a decrease in downforce. These settings need to be selected separately for each track - that is, find the minimum value at which the car does not touch the road, but does not “dangle”

A very important point is the adjustment of the clearance, otherwise called "Ground clearance". Too high values of this parameter lead to a deterioration in cornering stability (due to the “Wing” effect, the air flow lifts the car), and too low values - to a change in suspension geometry and poor handling (too low landing and high downforce require filigree control, otherwise, instead of turning you will fly off the track). But it is worth remembering that for better aerodynamics, it is necessary that the car be streamlined, that is, the rear of the car must be higher than its nose. Since there are quite a lot of parameters in the suspension settings, we will analyze each separately.

Front\Rear Shock Compression Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Compression ratio front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Shock Rebound Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Elasticity front/rear shock absorbers (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Spring Rate (Soft - Stiff)
Front/Rear spring rate (Soft - Hard)

A soft spring is needed for a comfortable ride. She will calmly “eat” the bump, and the body will not get hit. The softer the suspension, the more inconspicuous the bumps, but the worse the handling and stability. The car will "Chat" in different directions, and the behavior on the road will be unpredictable. Therefore, make the suspension as stiff as possible. Yes, this is a risk - the very first bump can lead to an uncontrollable skid, but this is irrelevant on the track, since the canvas is licked to a mirror shine

Ride Height (Low - High)
Clearance (Low - High)

Front\Rear Roll Bar Stiffness (Soft - Stiff)
Roll Stabilizer (Soft - Hard)

Front\Rear Tire Pressure (Low - High)
Pressure in Front\Rear tires (Low - High)

Tire pressure is an extremely important parameter for a racing car. The formula is simple: at high pressure, the car seems to fly over the road. Top speed and acceleration are better, but grip is worse. If the pressure is low, the area of \u200b\u200bcontact with the road is larger, which means better grip, but speed characteristics are worse. The best option: in the driving wheels, make the pressure lower, and in the driven ones - higher

Camber (Positive - Negative)
Camber

Camber is the angle between the vertical and the plane of rotation of the wheel. To put it simply, when looking at the wheel from the front (with wheels level), the level position is neutral camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out, it is negative camber; if lower - positive. Negative camber is used only in circuit racing on the oval, and even then only on the inside wheels, so that the contact of the tire with the track is maximum. Positive camber improves handling, because the car seems to cling to the road, but the tire wears out quickly in this position of the wheel, and the maximum speed decreases. We conclude that the convergence should be set closer to the "Plus", but not far from the neutral position

toe (Positive - Negative)
Convergence (Positive - Negative)

Convergence - the angle between the direction of movement and the plane of rotation of the wheel. Positive toe is when the wheels point inward, and negative toe out. Negative toe improves handling by providing sharper steering feedback. Positive increases stability on the road. The setting depends on the specific track, but in general it looks like this: if there are a lot of high-speed turns on the track, it is better to give preference to stability. And if there are more slow, tight turns, try moving the slider to a negative position.

caster (Positive - Negative)
Kingpin tilt (Positive - Negative)

Steering Response Ratio (Loose - Stiff)
steering feedback (Loose - Rigid)

Engine
For all engine parameters, the optimal position, as in the previous parts of the game, is +10, that is, all the power falls on maximum speed. No wonder, because it is at maximum speed that the whole race takes place.

Nitrous (Nitro)
Nitric oxide has only two parameters - pressure and injection force. We set the maximum pressure and the highest injection level. Both parameters regulate the increase in speed and power of the engine. Too high a value can lead to slipping and loss of control, too small - to the fact that the nitro will burn out, and you will not even notice it

Gearbox (Drive train)
Unlike the Carbon, here the gearbox setting is logical: short gears give quick acceleration and, accordingly, a low top speed. Long ones allow you to gain more speed, but the tachometer needle gets to high speeds much longer. Start running the track at the factory settings of the box, and having understood at what speeds it is best to take turns on the track, select the gear ratios.

Brakes
Brake settings do not affect speed, but with the third level package the car is faster than with the factory one. What caused this is not clear. Standard lottery Need for Speed

I recently wrote an article on NFS Underground 2. I was asked to do the same for Pro Street.

So, there are four types of races in the game: flu (circle), high-speed races, drag, drift (skidding). Not only are separate cars desirable for each type of race, they are required by the game. Let's start with the fact that after each final it is desirable to buy cars. All main cars will be available after the second final. And finally, let's proceed to the selection of cars.

1. Flu. This is a classic racing in a circle, the main type in this game. For him, from the very beginning you will be given a Nissan 240SX. The car is not very fast, but at first it will go. Ride it and don't change it until they start making you, figuratively speaking, even the Cossacks, that is, when it becomes too slow. I can assure you, this will not happen until you pass the first stage. Further, after the first final, many good cars will become available. Among all, I chose the main leaders: Dodge Charger R / T, BMW M3 GTRE46 or E92, Nissan GT-R (There is also a Nissan GT-R Proto, but it is not available). As for the latter, he has good speed, but you need to have a certain skill to manage. In one of the weekends (qualifying) you will be offered a VW Golf GTI or Nissan 350Z. I would recommend the 350Z. Rides well and handles better. Then do tuning these cars. Pumped to the maximum, they are quite suitable to defeat the king of the flu.

2. Drag. These are races in a straight line, no turns, a quarter mile or half a mile. In the qualifying weekend of the first stage, you will be offered a Chevrolet Cobalt SS or Honda Civic SI. Take the Cobalt, it rides much better. Just like in the first case, soon it will become too slow, and you will have to change it. A rear-wheel drive car is desirable for a dredge. First, they tend to accelerate faster than full- or front-wheel drive. Secondly, in the game there is such a kind of dredge as "willie". You need to ride as much as possible. To do this, you need a rear-wheel drive car with parts at least the third level. Do not take it for bias, but I set the absolute (of all my) records on the Chevrolet Camaro SS. A quarter mile in 7.78 seconds, respectively, for a dredge, I advise him. You can also try Mazda RX-7 or Dodge Viper SRT10.

3. High-speed racing. In these crazy races on breakneck speed just needed high speed and excellent handling. One of the cars that meet these requirements is the BMW M3 GT-R E46. You can also follow the example of the king of high-speed racing and take the Pontiac GTO (old). As an option, you can consider the Dodge Viper SRT10, but it will not be as good a choice as the other two. Well, if you don't like old cars and BMWs, take any Mitsubishi. The main thing is to pump the car to the maximum. If you bought a car for high-speed racing, pour all the money into tuning it. Splurge and you won't regret it.

4. Drift. These are drifts with the aim of scoring points. The one with the most points for a skid wins. In my entire driving history, the Nissan Silvia has become the best car for drifting. Who would doubt that I would recommend him. Even without tuning, this car is able to score up to 7000 points on various tracks. If you don't like the Silvia, get the 350Z. I can not advise anything else, these cars are the most and, moreover, inexpensive. That's what a drifter needs!

OK it's all over Now. I hope that helped both beginners and experienced ones. Good luck on the roads!