Choice of class cards. Playing against a Druid

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Greetings readers of the site. in front of you detailed guide on the game in the Arena in . Arena is one of Hearthstone's game modes. This guide is suitable for both beginners and more advanced players.

1. For Arena beginners

1.1. short information

Without mastery of advanced techniques, unlike the principles used in ranked battles, the experience of playing in the arena can be very frustrating. In this section, we'll go over the basics of arena play to help you understand the key principles you need to succeed.

Of course, there is a natural element of randomness involved in designing and playing an arena deck. With the help of this guide, you will be able to make informed decisions, consciously influencing the final result. We don't expect your game skills to improve instantly, but we hope that our tips will help you find the right path.

1.1.1. Where to begin

When playing in the arena, you have the opportunity to build a deck of random cards and test your skills, luck and knowledge of game mechanics in combat with other players. The first entrance to the arena is free, each subsequent one will cost 150 gold or 66 rubles. The cards you play with are not added to your collection, and the collection, in turn, does not affect the choices you make. This means that all participants are on an equal footing.

1.1.2. Hero choice

Once in the arena, you can choose one of the three proposed classes. A hero's class defines a set of cards, including random neutral and class cards, to choose from when building a deck.

1.1.3. Choosing cards for the deck

By choosing a hero, you will have access to 30 sets of random cards, 3 cards in each set. Cards from each set have the same quality. By choosing one of them, you put it in your deck. By repeating the procedure 30 times, you will form a deck ready to play. Sets 1, 10, 20, and 30 are always Rare and higher quality cards, but these cards are sometimes found in other sets.

1.1.4. Arena game

After building a deck, you can start a match with other players. After you press the Play button, you will be matched with an opponent of equal strength. Equality is determined by the current rating and the ratio of wins and losses. Arena fights end if you win 12 matches, lose 3 matches, or leave the arena.

1.1.5. Hearthstone Arena win rewards

With each win, you upgrade the key that opens the chest with rewards after the end of the arena. For each played arena, you can get 2-5 rewards. The first of these is always a set of cards that almost completely covers the costs of the pass, others are randomly determined and can be gold, arcane dust, an additional set of cards, or individual cards (often gold). The more matches you win, the better the reward will be. We offer you an approximate calculation of rewards (in addition to the mandatory set of cards), however, please note that they may change slightly.

• For 0 wins you can get 20-25 gold and arcane dust.
• For 1-3 wins you will receive dust and gold, roughly offsetting the difference between the cost of a set of cards and an arena pass.
• For 4-6 wins you will receive about 100 dust and gold and will remain a clear winner by working off the amount spent on the pass.
• For 7-9 wins you will be able to buy another pass, and will most likely get another set of cards and/or an additional card (possibly a gold one).
• For 10-12 wins you will get a lot of gold (up to 500) and additional card sets, but the dust at this level is not often found.

1.2. When to start fights?

The results of the game in the arena, like many things in Hearthstone, largely depend on luck, chosen tactics, knowledge game mechanics and player experience. Since the arena pass costs a game or real money, before the game, you need to properly prepare - understand the key mechanics and study the features of the classes.

1.3. Hero choice

Each class has the potential to win if the player is familiar with its intricacies and knows how to use specific cards. It should be remembered that regardless of the choice, the goal remains the same. You need to make the most of your cards, create an advantage, and establish or maintain control of the table. Choosing a hero also determines your deck building strategy, which requires deep knowledge of the class.

1.4. Card selection

When choosing cards, it is necessary to give preference to the one that provides the maximum value for its value. However, it is impossible to consider each card separately. Take into account the mana curve of the entire deck. The curve must be balanced and smooth, i.e. it should not have "failures" (absence of cards of a certain value).

It should be borne in mind that there should be more creatures and spells worth 2-4 crystals, because. in the first stage of the game, opponents fight for control and repel enemy attacks that affect the further course of the game. Cards worth 6 or more crystals may be slightly less.

1.4.1. Choice of Creatures

When choosing a creature, it is necessary to correctly assess its impact on the game situation. In general, the cost of an effective creature must be less than or equal to the sum of its health and attack power. For example, it costs 4 crystals, and the sum of the characteristics is 9, which makes this creature effective. In addition, other factors must be taken into account. Creatures with additional effects usually have lower stats or a higher cost. Sometimes the effect compensates for this deficiency (for example,), sometimes not (for example,).

For the most accurate assessment of creatures, you will need gaming experience, because only during the game you can understand their strengths and weaknesses. The following are examples demonstrating some of the important features of the creatures.

In the arena, creatures with a large supply of health and less attack power have priority, because. it will be more difficult for the opponent to remove them from the table. Creatures with high attack power do a lot of damage, but their low health pool often prevents them from surviving the first attack of the enemy, and therefore they have less impact on the game situation. For example, it looks extremely attractive, because. He has 5 attack power. and costs only 3 crystals, but this creature's health tells us that it will die from any spell, hero power, or attack from another creature (including those that cost 1 crystal). Another example is . The stock of his health is 4 units, i.е. most 4-crystal creatures can be traded for it, and even some cheaper spells ( , 3 crystals).

The exception is creatures with an attack power of 3 or less. At a crystal cost of 3 or more, all creatures must have an attack power of 3 or more. The reason is simple: creatures with an attack power of 2 or less cannot kill enemy creatures with retaliatory strikes or direct strikes, i.e. In any case, the exchange will not be in your favor.

The same rule applies to class cards. Some of them have outstanding effects (for example,), while others cannot justify their cost.

1.4.2. Choosing Class Cards

Each arena deck, regardless of the class chosen, should contain several spells that allow you to seize or maintain control. If the rest of the cards in the set do not allow you to draw an unusually strong creature into the deck (see the previous section), it is better to choose a spell that gives you a card advantage or allows you to slow down the development of the enemy.

In any case, you will need spells for the early game (i.e. those that cost 1-4 crystals). With them, you can maintain pressure on the enemy (provided that there is a creature in your half of the field and you do not have to trade it) or seize control by eliminating the threat (even if the trade is equivalent).

Strong class cards include paladin and warrior weapons, as well as AoE spells (for example, and ). In addition, class cards are valuable, with the help of which you can get additional resources that are valuable in the middle of the match.

1.4.3. Synergy

In general, the synergy of the cards in the deck plays into your hands, because. it increases the value of each individual card and allows you to play great combinations. However, an arena deck should not have combo-only cards if you don't already have other pieces of that combo. It is possible that you will not come across the necessary components, and if they do, competitive options may turn out to be even better. That is why we advise you to make a choice based on the individual value of the cards. If in subsequent sets you come across other cards for the combination, you can use them.

2.2. Mage

The main advantage of the mage is that the strongest class cards are basic or have a normal quality, which means that you will most likely come across when building a deck.

However, it should be noted that with the advent of new cards, the key spells (Fireball, Frostbolt and Wave of Fire) come across less and less. That is why, when selecting cards for a mage, we recommend taking any, even non-optimal spells (for example,) into the deck.

2.3. Rogue

Due to their Hero Power and a large number of tempo cards that allow them to gain a tangible advantage, most Rogues prefer outright aggression to control. The Hero Power allows the Rogue to outright win some matches, especially against Paladins, where you can profitably trade a weapon that costs two crystals for two recruits that cost a total of four crystals. Rogues often sacrifice their own health to clear the board, so he needs cards to heal. Even if you don't have these cards, you should be aggressive, using your health as an additional resource. Card advantage is achieved through spells such as , and combo cards and allow you to maintain a high pace of the game and put a lot of pressure on the enemy.

Rogue's main drawback is its predictability. If you don't manage to beat your opponent in the first few moves, you will most likely lose the match.

2.4. Druid

The Druid has a great hero power that can be used defensively by slowly building up armor, and offensively by effectively trading armor for enemy creatures. In addition, the druid has access to cards such as , and , which have a huge impact on the game situation at the beginning or middle of the battle.

With the release of the expansion big tournament Druids have received a significant buff. fulfills the same role as , but the Fighter does not slow down the development rate, and you do not have to catch up, as in the case of Wild Growth. In addition, the Darnassus Fighter can be used for an effective trade. Another new and extremely effective card that allows you to strengthen your position on the 4th or 6th turn or lure an important spell from the enemy.

The main drawback of the druid is his predictability. As a rule, all druids tend to drag out the match as long as possible, setting up expensive creatures and provocateurs. In rating battles, aggressive druids are very rare, because. there are almost no cards that match this style of play.

2.5. Shaman

Unfortunately, the shaman's hero power triggers randomly, and most of the totems do not pose a threat to the enemy. To effectively use the hero power, it is necessary to completely control the board, which is not always achievable. Shamans have several powerful spells that work in any situation (like and ), while using other spells ( , and ) requires careful planning. The power of shamans lies mainly in rare cards (for example, and ), which cannot be relied upon when compiling a deck for the arena.

With the release of the Grand Tournament add-on, shamans received a number of new features - in particular, and . These creatures allow you to ensure the presence on the board on initial stage games. - Another valuable rare card that serves as a replacement for Bloodlust and, unlike this spell, rarely hangs like a dead weight in the hand.

When compiling a deck for a shaman, it is necessary to give preference to a variety of amplifications. So, for example, they can turn useless totems into a tool for effective exchange and create an advantage at any stage of the game. Creatures that strengthen the entire board are distinguished by special power (for example,).

2.6. Warlock

It can be argued that the warlock has the most powerful hero power in the game. He has the ability to draw an extra card at any time by replenishing the stock. valuable resource. Due to this feature, Warlock decks have a very low curve and are designed to gain a speed advantage. This tactic was developed quite well and is still a success to this day.

However, with the introduction of the game, Warlocks began to use control decks with a lot of expensive demons (for example, and ), relying on the deathrattle of the Summoner. Even if you didn't manage to get the Summoner, you can still use Control Tactics by relying on the mid to high cost cards introduced in recent expansions.

Since Warlocks often use Hero Power and deal damage to themselves, it is of great value to them. This creature restores a total of 8 points. health, which is equivalent to drawing 4 cards.

2.7. Hunter

Hunters usually perform well in the arena, but they are very predictable, because. forced to use aggressive or tempo decks. The reason lies in the straightforward nature of the Hero Power, which only deals damage to the enemy Hero. Even though the hunter has access to crowd control ( , ) and high cost minions (), even the most patient hunters will eventually switch to aggression and punch the enemy in the face.

2.8. Priest

2.9. Warrior

A warrior's hero power has no effect on the state of the board, so he needs weapons and strong creatures, such as and/or , to gain an advantage. Without them, you are unlikely to win. A Mage without a Fireball or Waves of Fire might well win 12 matches, but a Warrior without a weapon probably won't.

3. Card selection

In order to help you a little in choosing cards for the Arena, we have prepared tables for you with card ratings for each class:

How to use card rating tables

The links above provide card ratings for playing in the arena by all 9 classes of Hearthstone. These ratings allow players to make the right decisions when building decks from random cards. The cards are sorted by cost, which allows you to quickly check the list if necessary and make the right choice.

Selecting the desired card

Since in the arena the player always has to choose one of three cards of the same quality, we have divided all the cards into 6 different categories, depending on the value for a particular class. It should be noted that within the category, the cards are presented in random order. General rule sounds like this: if you have a choice between three cards belonging to different categories, you must choose the one that is higher than the rest in the priority list. For example, if you're building a Druid deck and choosing between Talon Druid (Tier 1), Scarlet Crusader (Tier 3), and Goblin Bodyguard (Tier 6), you'll want to stick with the first option, because aside from the other cards in the deck, claw druid is the most valuable to you.

When having two or three cards that belong to the same category, you need to make a decision based on secondary factors (mana curve, deck type, personal preference, etc.) It will be shown below that secondary factors sometimes play a role when considering cards belonging to to different categories.

Exceptions

Since the spreadsheets cannot know what cards are already in your deck, you should not blindly follow their advice. In addition to the usual cost of cards, the choice is also influenced by:

• mana curve;
• deck type (aggro, control, combo);
• having multiple copies of the same card.

mana curve

When designing an arena deck, remember that it should have a smooth curve (i.e., cards with different costs should be distributed evenly), with cheap cards taking precedence over expensive ones. Ideally, your deck should have strong creatures for any stage of the game (beginner, intermediate, and end). Choosing cards without considering the overall mana curve can lead to unpredictable results. For example, if you make a deck clearly according to the tables, it will consist of 3/4 cards worth 2 crystals. Individually, each of these cards will be of great value, but you are unlikely to win with such a deck.

Thus, when choosing cards, one must take into account their ability to fit into the curve. The ideal curve depends on the deck type. For example, an aggressive deck designed for quick matches should contain more cheap cards and fewer expensive ones, while a "heavy" control deck should have the opposite. Consider the cards as a whole and maintain a reasonable balance.

Let's assume that in the 25th selection step you are offered two cards worth 2 crystals belonging to category 1 and a card worth 4 crystals belonging to category 4, but currently your deck has 7 cards worth 2 crystals and no cards worth 4 crystal. In this case, you should choose the last option, even if according to the tables this card is inferior to the other two.

As a general rule, you can choose 15-20 maps without taking into account the curve, and use the remaining 10-15 maps for "smoothing". However, this rule is not strict, and "smoothing" can be started much earlier, especially if the first 10 cards have a very high cost.

It is unlikely that anyone can describe everything possible options developments, so we hope that we have managed to convey a general idea to the reader.

deck type

When "smoothing" the curve, you need to take into account the type of deck you're trying to build. Let's say that in the first stage of deck building, you managed to get some excellent aggressive cards, and you decided to stick to the tactics of fast combat. In this case, all other cards should be just as aggressive (low cost, deal a lot of damage or buff existing creatures) and not defensive (provocate, creatures with high health and low attack power, healing spells), even if they are higher on the priority list.

Likewise, if you want to make certain combinations (such as beasts or murlocs), cards of that type will take precedence over all others. However, it should be remembered that an attempt to build an arena combo deck is rarely successful.

Copies of maps

With each new copy, the value of a single card decreases. For some cards, this rule only partially works, because. they are so good that their value practically does not decrease. Suppose card A belongs to category 1, but you already have two copies of it in your deck, and the value of the third copy will be significantly lower. This is especially true for situational cards - for example, Experienced Hunter or Mental Technician. Despite the fact that these creatures have excellent characteristics for their cost, their war cries they don't always work. The same goes for some spells (like Cleave, which only works if there are 2 or more targets on the enemy half of the board). In other words, the third or fourth spell will most likely be dead weight in the hand, because. the game situation is unlikely to allow it to be used.

This is because arena games are usually played proactively, and every card in the deck must match this tactic. Even though a deck with three or more Master Hunters can be incredibly powerful in some cases, with each new copy you limit your options, i.e. you get new wagering options, not an active move. The same goes for spells. A spell deck can be very effective, but multiple copies of the same card forces you to wait for certain actions from your opponent, limiting your freedom of decision.

Another good example- weapon. As a rule, weapons allow you to kill several creatures at once, organizing a profitable trade, which increases your presence on the board and gives you a card advantage. At the same time, clearing the table with a weapon costs health points, so adding 4 or more copies of Fireaxe to your deck is far from a good idea. In addition, it will take 2 or more turns to spend weapon charges, which means that you will not be able to immediately use other similar cards.

As mentioned above, this rule does not apply to some cards. Examples are Frostbolt, Pet, and Eviscerate. These are very flexible spells that can be used in any situation. In fact, their value starts to drop after adding 6 or more copies to the deck.

The same goes for strong mid-cost minions such as Frost Yeti, Piloted Shredder, or Ghost Knight, as they are quite strong and have an impact on the game situation at any stage of the match.

Practical application and results

Once you understand the purpose and use of the leaderboards, and learn the exceptions to the rules, you will be able to put our tips into practice effectively.

If you have been playing in the arena for a long time, the tables are unlikely to reveal anything new to you, because. you probably imagine the value of each card. However, with their help you will be able to make some difficult decisions.

For less experienced players, tables will help speed up the process of learning cards. As a result, you will be able to form your own opinion about them and make decisions based on your reflections.

Will I be able to make the perfect deck if I strictly follow all the rules?

Not! When assembling a deck for the arena, the random factor plays a huge role, i.e. even if you don't make a single mistake, victory in every match is not guaranteed. Losses happen to every player, it is inevitable.

Can I win X times based solely on these lists?

Not! Winning or losing in the arena depends not only on the deck, but also on the decisions that the player makes on each turn (not to mention luck).

Please note that the distribution of cards by category is not the only correct one. The lists only reflect the opinion of the author, a professional player who has been able to achieve an all-time high percentage of wins in arena games. In addition, the maximum beneficial effect of each card is achieved only if it is used in the optimal way.

The choice of class has a lot to do with the style of play based on common class cards oh and hero power. Starting selection cards, as a rule, determines the pace of the deck, because it is carried out on the basis of their value and degree of influence on the state of the board. Toward the end of the procedure, the choice depends more on the state of the mana curve.

The first cards must be chosen based on their value, regardless of the cost. Using the card rating to play in the arena, you can make a decent choice in the first stage, but towards the end, the value of copies of the same cards, as well as cards with the same cost, drops sharply.

For example, if you decide to play as a priest and choose , and as your first five cards. We can assume that you provided successful game in the final phase of the match, so you need to pay attention to cheaper cards, regardless of their value, otherwise you simply won’t get the opportunity to win back on the first turns. Of course, you would need a second Mind Control or Temple Fighter, but if there are 10 or more in the deck expensive cards, you will have to skip moves, and the enemy will get a huge advantage. Additionally, Mind Control can go into the starting hand and be useless for 10 turns.

3.1. mana curve

The mana curve describes the distribution of cards by cost. When choosing cards for the arena, it is always necessary to think over the first moves and answers to possible actions enemy throughout the game. There are no definite recommendations on the number of cards of one value or another, but it must be remembered that the first moves are very important for any class. You should not skip them using only the power of the hero, because. during this time, the enemy will have time to create a serious threat.

Below are the most viable arena deck curves.

3.1.1. End Game Emphasis Curve (Control)

Such a deck should have enough small creatures and cheap spells to survive to the desired stage. The main task is to seize control and slowly build up the advantage.

This curve is suitable for Priest, Druid, Mage, and Warlock control decks.

3.1.2. Early Game Emphasis Curve (aggro)

The alternate version of the curve focuses on early aggression and very short matches. These decks require a special finisher condition (such as Fireball "to the face" or the ability to break through a large enemy provocateur).

This curve is suitable for aggro decks of Mages, Hunters, Warlocks, Warriors, and Rogues.

3.1.3. Curve with emphasis on middle rounds (mid)

In such a deck, there are a large number of cards worth 4 crystals, because. most classes have powerful spells and creatures in this category, allowing you to seize the initiative and effectively control the board.

This curve can be used to build a deck for any class.

4. How to play against a particular class in the Arena

Knowing the strengths and weaknesses greatly influences the decision-making process. Success in arena battles largely depends on the ability to predict the actions of the enemy before he takes them, and minimize their impact. Next, we will talk about how to deal with opponents belonging to a particular class.

4.1. Druid

Druids have an aggressive hero power that is especially important if you have creatures with 1 in your deck. health. Even though it seems like a bad decision to expose your minion and see it die with a Hero Power, most of the time it's not. Success in the arena requires taking the initiative, creating a threat to the opponent and coaxing answers out of him.

The most powerful card in a druid's arsenal is . Be sure that the druid will sweep your creatures off the table with it at the first opportunity, so if the druid has 4 mana crystals, do not put 2 or more creatures. If you have a creature on the board with 1. health, but the opponent ignores him - be sure that Swipe is on the way. Trade this creature as soon as possible so as not to waste it. The exception is situations in which Swipe will consume all of the druid's mana crystals, and he will not be able to seize the initiative by exposing a new threat.

In general, powerful provocateurs and other expensive creatures are always present in the druid deck, which allows you to effectively use silences and direct spells. Silence is especially effective at the end of the game when you are trying to punch the enemy in the face. Save the silence, or for when you have the opportunity to trade this card for two enemy cards and get an instant advantage in the current stage of the game.

4.2. Hunter

Hunters tend to play very aggressively, and when planning your moves, you should always take into account the effect of a Hero Power that deals a lot of damage. When fighting a hunter, try to seize control as early as possible and show retaliatory aggression.

The secrets of the hunter have a huge impact on the game situation. Secrets must be bypassed so that this influence is minimal. Attacking with a creature triggers or , attacking an enemy hero triggers or , and is triggered when the creature is cast. By analyzing the actions of the enemy, you will be able to predict the type of trap.

Suppose the hunter played a secret with no minions on the board while you have or . You should attack him with Rookie Engineer. There are several options for the development of events.

If the secret is revealed, and it turns out to be the Frost Trap, you will win. You will be able to re-play the engineer, getting one more card and keeping the presence on the board, and the enemy will lose the secret.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be Explosive Trap, both of your creatures will die, but since you didn't play an extra creature before attacking, the damage is minimal. So you've lost creatures, but since the Engineer gave you a card when you played it, the Explosive Trap actually only took the Juggler, and the trade was equal.

If the secret is revealed, and it turns out to be , you can kill the bear with the Juggler or remove it from the board in another way.

If the secret is revealed and it turns out to be Redirection, the Novice Engineer will deal 1 damage. damage to your hero (in comparison, Dagger Juggler would deal 3 damage to you) or Dagger Juggler who survives. Either way, you'll get card advantage and your hero won't take too much damage.

If the secret is not revealed, then it is a Sniper Shot or a Snake Trap. At this point, you should play a cheap minion to make an equivalent trade with Sniper Shot (it should be Novice Engineer or , if possible), and then use the remaining mana on the hero power. If you play a creature with 4. health, it will die, and you will waste your turn.

If there is a secret on the field, try various ways checks one by one so that your losses are minimal. Analyze the possible consequences before taking any action. If you think your opponent is using Explosive Trap, never play minions before attacking.

The following mage secrets are currently in the game:

• triggers when casting spells.
• also triggers when a creature is killed.
• triggers when casting spells on creatures.
• triggers when a creature is killed.
• and are triggered when trying to attack an enemy hero.
• triggers when an enemy takes fatal damage.

So, in this case, the worst thing you can do is to use Windup on the Sun Serve. You can stumble upon Anti-Magic or Spellweaver, create multiple copies of Sunwalker with Fork, or another strong creature with Effigy. That is why it is necessary to check the secret before using spells. Play Backstab on the Lizard. If the secret works, you can eliminate the Acolyte and finish off the Lizard with the Bluegill Warrior. If the Spellweaver is revealed as a result, you can kill the spawned 1/1 hero power minion.

If the secret does not work when using the spell, a Bluegill Warrior should be deployed. Once you get Reflected Essence, you can trade minions or kill an enemy minion with hero power.

If the secret didn't work again, attack the enemy with the Bluegill Warrior and see if Turn to Steam appears, as this is the last secret that can harm you on your turn. If the secret did not work (or the Ice Barrier worked, which does not pose a particular threat), then the magician used the Ice Block.

Early in the game, spawning can be devastating, so you should always trade minions on your second turn, even if it's not profitable.

Be aware of strong class cards that cost 4 crystals ( , and ). If you manage to gain advantage on the board, it can be assumed that on turn 4 the paladin will cast Sanctify. This means that on the third turn, you should not put an additional creature with 2 units. health. Instead, you must use a creature that can survive an attack from the Hammer of Wrath or the Silver Blade (or with 4 health).

Since the paladins have weapons, they must be held in the starting hand (or equivalent).

The secrets of the paladin usually have less impact on the game situation than the secrets of the mage or hunter, but they also need to be checked and tried to turn the situation in your favor.

• is the most popular secret used in the arena. It is quite difficult to deal with him, however, in some cases, Vengeance creates opportunities for effective trade.
• triggers on any damage, so if both sides are low on health but have an aggressive hero power, try to make sure that the first attack is not too strong.
• - The second most common secret of a paladin. If you have an aggressive hero power (such as a rogue or druid), first try to unlock the secret with it and gain card advantage.
• - a very powerful secret, but a self-respecting paladin would never play it in the presence of a recruit or other weak creatures. However, before the main exchange, you must try to reveal the secret with the weakest creature. Redemption is especially effective when combined with Deathrattles (like the Harvesting Golem) and Divine Shields, as the new creature receives all additional effects.
• - another good secret, the presence of which is checked last. If an enemy secret didn't trigger on an attack, just play the minion with the lowest health.

In the early stages of a match it is very important to control the table, because. the paladin is able to significantly strengthen small creatures. Also, don't play too many minions that are vulnerable to Sanctify.

4.5. Priest

The Priest's Hero Power is of no use if there are no creatures on his board. That is why in a match with a priest, you need to constantly clean the board. With the release of the Goblins & Gnomes expansion, this rule has taken on a special meaning, because. members of this class have access to a powerful buff that helps them save their creatures.

In most cases, in a fight with a priest, the priority target is . Many players underestimate the importance of this creature, focusing on other, larger targets. If you have a creature on your board that the priest can use to damage his Cleric and then heal him, kill the Cleric as quickly as possible.

In a fight with a priest, creatures with an attack power of 4 are very effective, because. they are resistant to Shadow Word: Pain, and . When buffing creatures with 3 attack power, use or C to make them safe. Remember that buffing a creature with 4 attack power. makes it a suitable target for Shadow Word: Pain.

When playing with a priest, try to put maximum pressure on him, but remember that on the fifth turn he can clear the board. Do not put too many creatures on the field with 2 units. health.

If the fight drags on, your opponent is probably planning to use Mind Control. Try to bait this spell with creatures you can deal with, and then play your highest value card.

Priests usually win by killing the enemy with multiple blows from their creatures. This takes quite a bit of time, so your goal is to be as aggressive as possible early in the game. The main source of card advantage is hero power. Don't let the priest heal your creatures by constantly clearing the board.

5.6. Rogue

At the first stage of the game, the robbers can play extremely aggressively. In addition, they know how to quickly turn the situation in their favor. If the rogue has a Coin, he will definitely use it for combos.

Rogues often sacrifice their health in an attempt to build card advantage with Hero Power. You can use this circumstance to your advantage by finishing off the enemy with creatures and spells.

Toward the end of the game, rogues often use , which must be lured out before playing the best card. Let the rogue take out a large but non-key target.

When playing against a Rogue, use aggressive tactics so that he uses his Hero Power carefully.

4.7. Shaman

The Shaman needs full board control and card advantage to win, so you should eliminate his totems if there are no more dangerous targets on the board. At first glance, the monotonous destruction of totems may seem like a hopeless task, however, shaman decks often contain spells for strengthening that can create a powerful threat from even the smallest creature.

Fire elemental. Don't give your opponent a chance to finish off one of your creatures with an Elemental warcry. Despite the fact that this creature has a huge impact on the game situation in any scenario, its effectiveness can be reduced by forcing the enemy to refuse to play along the curve.

Always pay attention to the total number of mana crystals your opponent has. If you have an overload effect, you can influence its next turn. Using this advantage often brings tangible benefits.

The key to victory in a fight with a shaman is an advantage on the board. Don't let the enemy set up multiple totems at once. his deck might have .

4.8. Warlock

Warlocks are dangerous opponents. Regardless of deck type, Hero Power helps them gain card advantage.

If the warlock has 4 mana and no minions on the board, he is most likely using . Keep this in mind and don't push too many creatures to have an advantage on the board. Press on the enemy with what you have.

In a battle with a warlock, the main problem is . It must be killed on your turn, even if you don't have Silence. Otherwise, the warlock will be able to control the death rattle of this creature, and the result will be unpredictable. In addition, there is a possibility that the opponent is just bluffing, and he does not have other demons in his hand at all.

Warlocks often finish off opponents using cards such as , and . If there is not much health left, play carefully, fight for control and do not try to finish off your opponent as quickly as possible.

If your opponent is free to use your Hero Power, you're not pushing hard enough and they're taking advantage of the opportunity to gain card advantage. Expose your creatures, make the warlock recoup so that he does not have extra crystals and health units.

4.9. Warrior

As a rule, in the arena, warriors do not have a large number of cards that allow them to play at the final stage of the match, so they tend to end the battle as early as possible, actively using weapons and strong class creatures. Weapons allow warriors to create card advantage and strengthen their position on the board.

When playing with aggressive opponents, you must act even more aggressively. Most likely, the warrior will try to field as many creatures as possible, effectively trading them and spending health to clear your board with weapons.

Don't forget that weapons can be destroyed.

Warriors have great potential for finishing off an opponent. Unexpected final combinations can include the Arcanite Reaper, so try to hold your ground while eliminating all possible threats. Do not try to finish off the enemy as quickly as possible, because the warrior always wins such races.

Remember that the strength of the warrior hero has no effect on the state of the board, so in the initial and intermediate stages of the game, the presence of creatures on the board will greatly facilitate the fight.

5. Receptions and techniques of combat in the Arena

When making decisions in arena combat, you need to consider different options and choose the best one. Below we analyze hypothetical game situations and give advice on how to deal with them.

5.1. Creature exchange

Regardless of the degree of aggressiveness of the deck, you should make the most profitable exchange, and not hit the enemy "in the face", giving him the opportunity to make decisions about the exchange. Constantly clearing the board will help you avoid some of the pitfalls your opponent is counting on. For example, he can strengthen his creature (then the exchange will be even less profitable) or use an AoE spell.

However, if there are no opportunities for a profitable trade, you can hit the enemy hero directly, forcing him to win back. In order to make sure this decision is correct, imagine that you have already hit the enemy, and then think about what punishment might follow. If the prospect doesn't look too good, trade, and if you can't think of a viable scheme, attack the enemy hero. The ability to predict possible scenarios comes with experience. Moreover, even the most experienced players often fail to appreciate all the consequences. As examples, let's look at some cards and their impact on the game situation.

• increases the characteristics of an enemy creature from 2/3 to 3/4, it kills your creature, the enemy gains card and board advantage.
• The Vanguard Protector always gives the opponent card and board advantage if they have a creature that can gain a divine shield. Don't leave any good targets on the board.
• can turn a 2-crystal minion into an effective trade tool, especially if the priest gains the ability to use a hero power.
• A weapon (such as ) eliminates your creatures. If you ignored an enemy creature that was on the table before the weapon spawned, your opponent has advantage.
• destroys several creatures at once, and the enemy gains an advantage on the board. If you think he can use Sanctify, try to keep his board as short as possible. The same goes for other AoE spells (Nova of Light, Blizzard, Waves of Fire).

5.2. Finishing strategy

If you have evaluated your hand and come to the conclusion that you have what it takes to end the match, take your time. For example, if you're playing a mage, holding two and see that the enemy has less than 20 points left. health, you can throw both balls "in the face", ignoring the creatures present on the table. In some cases, this tactic is considered rational and bears fruit, however, before rushing into battle, it is necessary to assess the possible risks.

By giving your opponent the initiative to trade, you risk losing the advantage that was earned in the previous phase of the game. The results of the exchange can be unpredictable, the opponent will turn the situation in his favor, and you will find yourself in the cold.

When deciding on finishing off an opponent, several factors must be taken into account.

The composition and curve of your deck. Very aggressive decks are designed for quick matches, i.e. in fact, they do not have expensive cards. As a result, every large creature played by the enemy will only aggravate the situation. If you think that your opponent has more expensive cards than you, try to finish him off as quickly as possible.

The class of the enemy and the AoE spells available to him. If the enemy can have decent AoE spells, it is necessary to remember the decisions that he made before. If he has not previously used, or in situations suitable for this, most likely he simply does not have these cards. Of course, there is a possibility that he just drew the right card, but it is quite small.

your hand. If you have cards in your hand for a decent response to a possible threat, hit the enemy "in the face." Cards such as silence, strong spells for dealing direct damage, weapons and creatures with dashes add confidence. Deserves special mention, because. To trigger the effect of this card, you need to lower the opponent's health below 15 units as quickly as possible.

Board condition. If you're far behind your opponent and you know your deck doesn't have any decent tools to fix the situation, hit "in the face", leaving the opponent the opportunity to deal with your creatures, and hope to get the right spell or creature to finish off.

5.3. Fight ahead of the curve

If you are unable to finish off the opponent, and he has chosen an aggressive tactic and attacks your hero without trying to trade creatures, there are several possible reasons:

• The opponent has a strong last hitting spell or minion and is trying to create a situation in which to use it.
• The enemy does not consider it necessary to spend an AoE spell, because. it provides an unfavorable exchange.
• The opponent has no worthy moves, and he hopes that desired map will be added to his hand at the start of his next turn.

In most cases, it will be wise to minimize the risks and engage in an exchange, but if it seems to you that your next move will be fatal for the enemy, and nothing threatens your life, feel free to attack the enemy hero.

5.4. Refusal to attack

In rare cases, it may be advantageous to not attack, but this is a rather risky move, which implies that you have an advantage or reliable ways to protect yourself.

Let's say that you put on the field, and your opponent (mage) played a secret. After confirming that the secret is not (i.e. by putting a weak creature on the field), you can abandon the attack in order to check for the presence of Parallel on the next turn by attacking the opponent with a weak creature, not a yeti.

Another example: Let's say you're playing against a paladin, setting up a Juggler with Coin Daggers, and your opponent has played a Secret. Most likely, this secret is , and if you have no way to check it (with a hero power, a weapon, a creature with a dash), you need to skip the turn and make a more effective check on the next turn.

Some paladins use on enemy creatures to try and get extra cards. As a rule, such a move indicates the desperate situation of your opponent. If the stock of his health is close to critical, you should not refuse attacks. If you just have an early or intermediate board advantage, chances are your opponent is trying to lure important spells out of you, so you should hold off attacking until you have an opportunity to make a good trade and get rid of the Seal creature.

6. Conclusion

Guides and recordings of matches with other players will no doubt teach you how to play better, but real success in the arena is unthinkable without the right mindset, which allows you to choose the only correct move from all possible options.

Knowing the strengths and weaknesses of each class is key when designing an arena deck. Pay attention to the mana curve and plan your first moves in advance. This will positively affect the quality of the deck. Remember that a decent deck can be made even from random cards. Sometimes the game will offer you cards of excellent and even legendary quality, sometimes you will have to be content with only rare and common cards. Do not reproach fate. Study the card ratings for the arena to develop your own strategy for determining their value and building a deck.

With each match played, you will acquire new knowledge and sooner or later learn to predict the actions of the enemy, paving the way to new heights. Do not believe those who claim that in Hearthstone everything is decided by luck. Experience shows that in the end it all comes down to the skill of the player.

P.S. Don't be too harsh on this guide. The purpose of the guide is not to give you any clear recommendations, but to give you some helpful tips and direct your thoughts in the right direction. I will try to supplement and update the information in this article. If you notice any inaccuracies, you can - write about it in the comments. Also, you can offer any other information regarding the Arena in Hearthstone, which is not in this guide. Good luck!

Pick - card selection. High Pick is a high quality card that should be drawn over most other cards.

First pick - map the highest level. Picked above any other cards in that rarity slot.

Common - base rarity card (white crystal).

Rar or rarka is a rare card (blue crystal).

Epic - epic card (purple crystal).

Legendary - You Won't Believe It...

SPD - spell damage or spell damage.

Topdeck is the top card of the deck or the most successful card in this situation that has just come into hand.

Removal - cards that remove opponent's creatures from the field. Kill, return to hand, steal - it doesn't matter.

AOE (Area of ​​Effect) - cards that work not for one, not for two creatures, but for the entire field.

HP - Hit Points, life points.

Support (support) - cards that support and buff your creatures.

Constructed is a game format where you build a deck from the cards in your collection, whether it's ranked, unranked, or tournaments. The antipode of the arena.

RNG - random number generators or random.

RNGesus!! — bl*! This is random!

Deca (deck) - a deck.

Fourth drop. Or first, second, sixth, etc. This is a 4 mana card that you will want to play on turn 4. It is important to understand that not every card for 4 mana is a fourth drop - some cards are better to hold for late game or suitable situation. And you really want to put the fourth drop exactly on the 4th move in order to seize the advantage on the table. A great example of such a drop is the yeti.

Combat trick (combat trick) - a feint with ears that gives us an advantage. It can be anything - a creature buff, a secret, some tricky card. Any action that allows you to take more from the opponent than we spent.

Mulligan (mulligan) - a one-time replacement of cards in the starting hand. A replacement card cannot be immediately returned to the hand from the mulligan. She may come first after the start of the game or, if there are several identical cards in the deck, another one of the same may return.

The arena consists of three stages: 1 - deck building, 2 - mulligan, 3 - pump ... the game itself. We assemble a deck of 30 cards, choosing each card from three offered. 30 of these spades, and the deck is ready. Yes, we play 30 out of 30. If we pick a bad card, we have to play it. If we're offered three bad cards to choose from, we need to bite the bullet, take the least bad of them, and play it, so peek carefully. During the drafting process, we will be offered several blue cards, maybe even slip an epic or a legendary card, but the basis of our deck is commons, cards of the lowest rarity level. That doesn't make them bad, the strongest cards in the game are commons, so don't be discouraged if you don't get a legendary.

First of all, let's decide on the archetype of the deck. In constructed, we have a certain scope for imagination. We can build a deck on murlocs or pirates. We can collect bistas. We can put together a super fast and aggressive warlock. Or a magician with a bunch of cards massremuval. We don't have that option in the draft. We know almost for certain that we won't be able to collect any murlocs, or bists, or super control mage, etc., etc. Almost always in the draft, you can only successfully play mid-range beatdown on creatures. Mid-range means our main working mana cost ranges from 2 to 6. We'll get to mana later. The second point is creatures. Our deck is built around creatures, and there should be a majority of creatures in it. We can't get half a deck of buffs and count on a successful game. We cannot collect all the proposed removal and expect to kill a couple of creatures. Buffs, removal and combat tricks should dilute our deck, but cannot be its basis, so a good creature often picks over removal. This leads to the next point - floating rankings.

Surely you have already managed to play at least a little in any of the modes and form your own opinion about individual cards. Some cards seem very strong to you, others do not, and they really are, the cards are not equal in effectiveness, it is important to distinguish good card from bad. However, even the most accurate and unbiased card ranking list will do you a disservice if you don't make adjustments during the draft for what you've already picked up. Yes, the cards we have already drawn affect the value of future picks. If we took a Bist that draws cards, then this dramatically increases the value of all other Bists in the deck, even if they are weak individually. If we have great battlecry effects, bounced creatures become more attractive to us. If we have a lot of weapons in the deck, we really want a 3/3 pirate for 4 mana, and we don’t want him at all if there are no weapons. Each peak should be considered not as a spherical map in a vacuum, but as it will work with maps already drawn. And most importantly, don't forget when drafting that removal and combat tricks are part of our deck, but most of it is creatures.

What is the difference between a good card and a bad one?

In the description of the cards, I will call some of them bad, and you will say: “Wow wow, but I once saw how this card played perfectly and dragged the game!” Yes, it happens. From time to time, any, even the most stupid card can come in handy and play very cool. However, most of the time, bad cards play badly, and this is what separates them from good ones. Good cards are good always or almost always.

Walk a creature in the face or change?

Hearthstone is all about trading. We want to sell our cards for a higher price and buy our opponent's cards for a lower price. Therefore, if you have alternatives, you need to consider them all and choose the best deal. Blah blah, that's understandable, so where to go? If you see that after the transfer of the move, the opponent will have a choice, and he will be able to choose one of several options, then he will choose the most convenient and profitable for himself, in which case you need to prevent such a development of events and initiate the exchange of creatures yourself, on your conditions. If you see that the opponent is in a stalemate and will go for exactly the same exchange, then you can go on the attack in the face, so we will win a few HP out of the blue.

To give you an example, imagine you have a 5/2 minion on an empty board and your opponent has a 2/1 minion on an equally empty board, and you decide where to attack. You understand that a 5/2 creature is much more valuable than a 2/1 creature, and the opponent will gladly swap with you, in which case you can safely attack in the face. If there are several creatures on both sides, and there are also cards in the opponent’s hand, then impose as many exchanges as possible that are beneficial to you, otherwise the opponent will do it for you. This is the simplest example, in fact, there are a lot of factors that influence such decisions, for example, bubbles, buffs, AOE or stage of the game.

In general, in Hartstone, as in all games related to randomness, it works great Occam's razor. As applied to Hartstone, this principle means the following: if you have several methods of solving a problem that are approximately equal in efficiency, choose the simplest one.

There is a great example in one of the poker textbooks, I'll try to retell it from memory: Imagine that you like milk. And you have a habit - every night, before going to bed, you take a carton of milk out of the refrigerator, drink a glass, put the bag back and go to bed. One day, when you came to the kitchen in the morning, you found an open package of milk on the table, and two versions come to your mind: 1 - aliens flew in at night, climbed through the window, took milk out of the refrigerator, drank and flew away without putting it back in place. 2 - you just forgot to remove the package yesterday. We cannot say that the alien version is impossible even in theory, why not? But on the other hand, we understand that the probability of the second option is much higher, and most likely it is correct. It is the same in XR - complex and cunning plans sometimes work, but simple plans work more often, and therefore they are more effective.

What stages is divided into one party in the arena?

The game in the arena is divided into 3 stages:

1. Table capture. These are the first few turns where players throw in their strongest early drops to take over the table and force their trades on their opponent. The attacking player always has an advantage because he can change his cards more profitably. A lost start often means a lost game, so don't spare your trump cards in the early game.

2. exchanges. This is the stage of the game following the capture. Players switch cards in an attempt to gain card and speed advantage by increasing their influence on the table. We cannot hit the opponent in the face from the very beginning of the game, ignoring his creatures, this does not work in the arena. If we do this, the opponent will intercept the table due to favorable exchanges, and we will have to go on the defensive, and this is very bad. This stage lasts until one of the players decides to move the game to the third stage.

3. throwing slippers. When one of the players sees that he is killing an opponent this turn, or with a high probability of killing an opponent in the coming turns, he gives up control of the table and starts throwing everything he has in the face. Before taking the game to this stage, it is important to make sure that you are the one who will win the hit race. It is VERY important to feel the moment when to move the game to the third stage. Early as well as late transitions is a mistake that will cost you many games.

How to mulligan?

Our mulligan depends on whether we go first or second. The main criterion is that we want to put creatures on the table from the first moves.

If we go first, we have 3 cards to choose from. good creatures for 1 mana is very small, which means that it is important for us to start exhibiting from the second move. In other words, we discard all cards that cost more than 2-3 mana. It is important to understand that not all cards are second drops, we need to put something useful on the table, and not have any card for 2 mana, so removal with starting hand throw away. If we are offered two second drops, we need to choose and keep one, because we do not want to put a creature for 2 mana on the 3rd turn.

If we go second, we have a lot more room to maneuver thanks to the extra card and coin. We can leave two second or third drops, because we can put them in a row thanks to the coin. We can leave the second and fourth drops, because we can put them in a row thanks to the same coin. Leave those cards that will allow you to put creatures on the table for the first few turns without gaps.

How to use a coin?

The coin must be used in such a way as to expose the most powerful creatures EVERY turn. If we put a 3\2 creature from a coin on the first move, then we will get an advantage on the table and the right to choose whether to change or not. But if on the next move we have nothing to bet, then we will immediately lose all the advantage, and the sacrifice of the coin will be in vain. You need a coin so as not to miss moves, do not speed up with a coin if you have nothing to bet on the next move. Do not hold a coin in your hand for a long time, the further, the less advantage one additional mana brings, and the coin rapidly becomes cheaper.

Is random as strong as they say?

Indeed, every second one beats his heel in the chest and claims that in Hartstone everything is determined by random, and with the same success, instead of playing, you can throw a coin. Yes, randomness plays a role in Hartstone, this is understandable even for a goat, it remains only to measure and evaluate it. If every second one is crying at random, then the other half retorts, they say, these are card games, baby, in all card games there is an element of randomness, but it is defeated by math, deckbuilding and other means, so no noah. About the same poker they write thick textbooks with long mathematical calculations and formulas.

It turns out that randomness in XC is at the level of such sports disciplines as poker and the like, and all the noise is in vain?

No, Hearthstone is on a separate level, and here's why. Indeed, in every card game, a random arrival of cards is provided. Whether it's XR, poker, fool or solitaire, we don't know in what order the cards will come to us, and this suggests that there is randomness in any card game. In all or almost all card games, this random ends. We always know how the incoming cards work, after coming into the hand they do not bring any surprises. Hartstone also has a second level of randomness, which makes it special. This second tier is cards with an unspecified effect, like Brawl, Ragnaros, Ysera, Arcane Missiles, etc. There are a lot of such cards, and they have a significant impact on game process. It would seem that just not playing such cards, and the problem is solved? Again, no, many random effect cards are too powerful not to play. We hate Ragnaros for the stupid spitting in the small things, but we put him in the deck anyway, because he is one of the best cards.

So, is it true that in XC everything is determined by randomness?

No, it's not =) To talk about randomness in maps, you need to distinguish between short and long distances. A short distance is a couple of games, a couple of hours, a couple of days. Long distance is a week, a month, a year, all the time that you play the game. You may not be lucky in some game. You may not be lucky in two or three games in a row. Why, you can catch disgusting top decks all evening and drain them. At such moments, it is important to understand that randomness works both ways. If you lose part of the games due to failure, then exactly the same part of the games you will win for the same reason - the opponent's failure. From time to time you will topdeck like a pi…gay, your opponent will get terrible backs, his Bomberman will kill his own creatures - all this will happen. If in a short distance fortune can lean in someone's favor, then in the long run luck and failure will reduce each other to zero, and statistics will dot the i's. If you've played 100 arenas and the average score is 2-3, then you don't have to complain about bad cards, bad cards, and opponent's legendaries - it's just your fair score. Until you accept this, you cannot begin to learn how to play.

Tournaments deserve special mention. Tournaments are not related to the long distance in any way, and the statistics have no effect there. Most tournaments are held according to the “lost once - thanks for participating” system. So what, any lucky noobs can win the tournament? Once a year, and the stick shoots, but everything has its limits. The current balance of power is such that in a situation where 50 noobs, 50 cool players and 5 very cool players come to the tournament, there is no guarantee that one of the very cool players will win the tournament. But we can say almost 100% that the tournament will not be won by noobs. So for successful performances in tournaments, you just need to not be a weak player and ... make more attempts.

Manacurva or mana curve.

No, not mom - whore, here you are not dota. Mana curve is a graph of the mana cost of all the cards in your deck. In arena, this graph can be seen at the bottom of the screen during deck build or between games.

Why is she needed? Manakurva is needed to rate cards higher or lower during deck building. After assembly, it is not needed for anything, except to understand that it was badly imported in the draft.

What should be the ideal manakurva?

A good manakurva should smoothly rise the drop from the second and just as smoothly fall the drop to the 6th-7th. In manakurva, sharp jumps up are allowed, but dips down are highly undesirable. Why is that? Because on the 3rd turn you need to put a creature for 3 mana, and on the 4th - for 4. If we put a second drop of 3/2 on the third turn and continue in the same vein, then we will lose, because the opponent will respond to us more powerful creatures and take over the table.

For what - found out, now let's figure out how important it is. To be honest, this is not a critical criterion. If you are offered two bad cards, which fit perfectly into the manakurva, and one cool card, which is neither to the village nor to the city - take a good one. Yes, it’s uncomfortable, but it turns out unevenly, but there’s nothing to be done, good cards beat bad ones. It’s better to whine that “they didn’t bring a whore” than “they gave all kinds of slag in the draft”. But now, if you are offered cards of approximately similar value, then manacurva is one of the most important factors, here we remember about it.

In addition, manacurve can be used to evaluate the overall pace of our deck in order to make decisions whether to take more card draws or take more aggression, and other things, but these are rather subtle points, you will deal with them yourself later.

Hello. I would like to tell you how to play in the Arena with all classes, and I will start from the most popular hero - Mage. Almost all players in Hearthstone, if they see a Mage in the choice of a character in the arena, they take it.

Deck building

I believe that deck building in the arena affects at least 75% of the result, so you need to choose your cards very carefully. The assembly of the arena itself is divided into 2 stages. The first stage is when you just choose the cards you like, and in the second you should already pay attention to the mana curve and the synergy of the cards.
Why is magic so loved? Of course, for his cool class cards, especially spells that surpass all other classes in terms of cost / power combination. A great example is , costs 4 mana and deals 6 damage. The warrior has the same card for 4 mana, but it deals 6 damage only if you have 12 hp or less.

1st part (1-15 cards)

In the first half of the cards, you should choose those cards that are simply strong without synergies and almost no attention to the mana curve. From ordinary cards, you should take without looking at the rest of the cards - , and . And of course, the "classics" -,. For late, take , and . Secrets are also a good choice, especially .
Ordinary cards are the basis of your deck, and rare ones will drop out infrequently, but if you still come across them, then take and . The mage is good even if you don't have secrets, but if you can play a secret as well, it will give you so much tempo that it will be very difficult for the opponent to get out of this position. The community cards will help you a lot at the beginning of the game, so grab them with both hands. But still, most rare cards cost 4-5 mana, so they have a special value in the middle of the game. , is a list of great arena rares.
Epics will drop even less often, not even in every arena. But, oddly enough, you should not be especially happy about their appearance. You will find a lot more "junk" cards than really good ones. Of the class cards, only one can be distinguished, for me personally, she saved my life a bunch of times. From the common cards it will be good - he can pull you out of the game at the very beginning. A few more good epics have been brought to us by the latest additions - and .
Legendaries are those cards that you shouldn't really hope to drop. There are quite a few good arena legendaries, but they are very different from Constructed. For example, a super strong card in the ranking is completely unnecessary in the arena. Perfect cards in the arena for you will be , and . You can also take purely late cards, but they will not be as effective, since the middle game in the Arena decides almost everything.

2nd part (16-30 card)

It is from this moment that you need to think, not only about the cards themselves when choosing, but also about other factors. Let's start with the mana curve, you shouldn't make it very sharp, it should be smooth. For each mana, you need to have at least 2-3 creatures so as not to miss a turn and not lose momentum. The main mana peak should be at the fourth mana. Fortunately, there are a lot of good cards for 4 crystals.
Don't cast too many spells. 8-10 spells is the limit, otherwise you will simply have nothing to put on the table. But, when you count cards, or let's say a hunter, for you there should be creatures.
Synergy is an important aspect when choosing cards in the Arena. You should not take a card in the arena, hoping that then another card will come to you that will interact perfectly with it. However, if you still took it, then pay your attention to the dragons, in this case it will be more valuable than the yeti.
The last thing I would like to say is that in the arena, silence cards will help you a lot, they often save the whole situation. one of the strongest cards in the arena.

Arena game.

The game in the arena is very dependent on the built deck, so do not be too lazy to write down all your cards on a piece of paper, and cross them out when you get it in your hand. This will help a lot at the end of the game to understand which card will come to you next. There are some programs that will do this for you. You should play differently against each class.

Playing against the Mage

You should be afraid of his cheap spells, and don't go all out because he doesn't have . Always imagine the worst-case scenario for yourself so that you are prepared for anything. , you can get badly messed up in the beginning, so don't expect too much to "rush" the mage. Don't forget the secrets, but play against the most popular secret first.

Warrior game

Almost always, a warrior will have , so play against her. If you have in the deck, then keep it to the last. Also, don't forget about the other AoE spells of the warrior. Still, this is an unpopular and weak class in the arena, so rejoice if you see him against you.

Playing against a Druid

The druid is somewhat similar to the magician, due to his spells. He can get into the board quite early as a strong minion due to . Also be prepared for - the most popular druid spell. Many of them take 6 pieces in decks! Also remember about another strong card - , and be ready on turn 3 to get a 4/6 creature with taunt after .

Playing against the Warlock

The warlock is also one of the weakest classes, along with the warrior. However, be prepared for strong spells like or . Leave your removals on strong creatures - or .

Playing against a Paladin

In my opinion, the paladin is one of the strongest classes in the arena. This is a versatile class that has strong Aoe and weapons.

In this guide, we will guide you step by step through the entire path of playing in the Arena. Given that you have already familiarized yourself with and received some practical skills, this guide will give you everything you need to regularly achieve the coveted 12 victories.

1. Choose a hero

In the Arena, each class has its own unique strengths and weaknesses. Most often, the determining factor is the strength of the hero and unique cards class (mostly ordinary). However, the differences between the classes are not as pronounced as in the normal game mode, since when right choice most decks will contain roughly equal level neutral cards.

Despite many similarities, some classes in the Arena are considered to be stronger than others, however, the differences between class groups are very small, due to which even classes from the "lower" groups are able to win a series of 12 victories with a competent set of cards and an appropriate level games. It may turn out that your personal rating victories will differ from those proposed by us, because you have your own playing style, determined by your strengths and weaknesses. Do not forget that this is just a guide, and opinions about right game in the Arena and the relative strength of the different classes vary greatly even among the top experts of the Arena.

• 1 group (gorgeous):,
• 2 group (wonderful):,
• 3 group (good):,
• 4 group (medium):

Let's look at all the classes of the game separately.

1.1 Paladin

Since the release of the application, the paladin class has significantly increased in strength in the Arena, turning from one of the strongest classes into perhaps the strongest. Part of the paladin's strength comes from the wide range of class cards to choose from, allowing you to build a very fast and aggressive deck, using cards like , to keep creatures on the board and constantly increase the pace of the game ahead of the opponent. The mini-bot has significantly buffed the paladin, and it can be very difficult for the opponent to deal with this creature that enters the game on the second turn. At the same time, you can build a very effective late game deck by using powerful control cards ( and ) to slow the game down. As a result, you will gain an advantage due to the ability to create a creature with 1/1 indicators every turn. The key to success when playing a paladin is to correctly determine which of the two types your deck began to form in order to build it correctly in the future.

Perhaps the only weakness of this class is that many of its strong cards ( , and ) are rare or epic, and therefore you will not have too many opportunities to get them, which in general reduces the stability of the class. Needless to say, you should pick a card as soon as you get the chance, as it's one of the most powerful cards in the entire Arena.

1.2 Mage

The Mage has the most convenient Hero Power in the Arena among those who deal 1 damage, since his Hero Power allows you to ignore , and using it against creatures does not result in damage to the hero. The mage class can also be used in quite a variety of ways. The , and cards provoke you to build aggressive fast decks, and the , and cards will allow you to win a slow victory, relying on board control.

One of the biggest strengths of the mage is that most of his strong cards are common or basic, making it very likely that you will get them. In this regard, many players consider the mage to be the strongest and most stable classes of the arena.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards for a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

1.3 Rogue

Most often, a rogue implies an aggressive playstyle instead of control. This is largely due to the large number of cards that allow you to quickly build up the pace, and the power of the hero. In some fights, the strength of the hero comes to the fore (especially against the paladin, with whom you can eliminate two recruits for the creation of which the enemy spent 4 crystals for 2 mana crystals). In the process of clearing enemy creatures with the help of blades, the rogue hero will often sacrifice his own health indicator, and therefore it is highly recommended to stock up on healing cards. Even if your deck doesn't have tools to restore your hero's health, you should play aggressively, treating health as your additional offensive resource, since your hero power is one of the keys to success. Cards like , will always give you some card advantage, while most cards with an ability and a card will allow you to put pressure on the opponent and build up the tempo.

The disadvantage of the rogue class is that it will often be significantly outperformed in the late game, so the key to success is to be as aggressive as possible in the early game.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards for a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

1.4 Warlock

The Warlock Hero Power is one of the most useful of all the classes in the game. Access to an additional set of cards gives him a significant advantage, since it is the cards that form the basis for victory. This ability allows you to build a very aggressive and cheap deck and stun the enemy with its speed. It is this principle of building warlock decks that has been and remains a key aspect when playing this class in the Arena.

However, since the introduction of the card, the warlock has also been able to successfully build control decks containing numerous expensive demons, such as and , which allow you to use the deathrattle of the summoner to great advantage. Even if you don't get lucky enough to draw a Voidcaller card, you'll be able to stick with board control tactics thanks to the improvements to mid-late game control cards that come with the new additions to Hearthstone.

Since the warlock sacrifices his own health to get new cards, cards like , are valued much more than they usually do. The Healer can be seen as a means to get four extra cards with your Hero Power.

1.5 Druid

The Druid Hero Power not only allows you to attack, providing a card advantage through smart trades, but also gradually increases your hero’s armor. Cards like , and , will always have a significant impact on the distribution of forces on the board in the middle and late stages of the game, and cards and will help the druid at the start.

The weakness of the druid also lies in the predisposition to a certain type of game. Pretty much any druid deck relies on dominating the opponent in the mid to late game, thanks to the presence of powerful cards and strong . It is extremely difficult to build an aggressive deck for a druid, since only a few cards of this class are suitable for this type of game.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards of a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

1.6 Priest

Priest's Hero Power can be a great card advantage if you manage to destroy enemy minions while saving and healing your own. However, that same Hero Power can become almost useless, as it doesn't actually affect the course of the battle when you fail to effectively heal your minions. The priest class is always about building a control deck, as you will gain a significant advantage in the late game by making smart trades with subsequent healing or by having or cards. In this case, your game in the early and middle stages will be based on the use of cards, and.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards of a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

1.8 Hunter

This class often performs well in the Arena, although it acts quite narrowly, relying on strong, fast and aggressive decks that put constant pressure on the enemy. The reason lies in the straightforward nature of the hunter's hero power, which is only capable of dealing damage to the enemy hero. Although the hunter has some strong control cards ( and ) at his disposal and strong late-game creatures like , in the end of the duel even those hunter decks that are most focused on control slide into a banal finish impudence in order to finish off the enemy hero.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards of a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

1.9 Warrior

The Warrior's Hero Power does not affect the situation on the board, so you have to rely on strong creatures and equipment cards to gain board control and card advantage. It is vital to get cards, and (or), because it will be extremely difficult to gain the upper hand without them. You can easily win 12 victories in the Arena with a magician without cards or, but with a warrior without weapon cards, you are unlikely to succeed in such a trick.

To get acquainted with the relative value of all cards of a given class in the conditions of the Arena, we offer you in the Arena.

2 Card set

By choosing cards for your deck, you will broadly define your playstyle based on regular cards available to your class and your hero power. Deck starting cards usually determine the speed of your deck, as you will draw cards based on their value and possible impact on the board. In the later stages of recruitment, you should mainly pay attention to the smoothness of your mana distribution curve.

The choice of starting cards should always be determined by the value of the cards, regardless of their value. Our Card Rating Tables will help you make the best picks early in the recruiting process. But you should be aware that towards the end of your deck formation process, the value of some cards may decrease significantly due to the large number of copies of this card already in the deck, or because the deck is saturated with a large number of cards of the same value.

For example, imagine you are building a Priest deck and your first five cards are , and . In fact, you have prepared for the late game, and now it's time to pay attention to the mana distribution curve. To survive to the ending you want, you need to fill low cost slots so that you can play cards on every turn and successfully roll into the late game. There's nothing wrong with getting a second Mind Control card or another Temple Fighter, but you'll have a hard time getting started with more than ten cards in the late game. As a result, your opponent may gain such an advantage in the cards that you will not be able to cope with later. You may also find yourself in a situation where you end the game with a couple of Mind Control cards in your hand and no way to play them.

2.1 Mana distribution curve

The mana distribution curve is determined by the ratio of the number of cards in the deck in relation to their cost. When it comes to Arena, you must ensure that there are options available. own game or ways of counteracting the opponent's play at any time during the match. There is no specific number that determines the number of cards of a certain value that you need to collect. However, you need to understand that regardless of the class you choose, the early game is of the utmost importance. And skipping turns using your Hero Power instead of putting cards in play that threaten your opponent will always be a sub-optimal option, unless your Hero Power allows you to gain a real advantage.

Below we will provide you with the most common variants of acceptable mana distribution curves.

2.1.1 Late Game Mana Curve (Control Deck)

This deck should contain a significant amount of early game creatures and spells that will help you roll into the endgame painlessly. The goal of your deck is to gain board control and slowly build an edge that will take you into the final stage.

This type of mana distribution curve is great for priest, druid, mage, and warlock control decks.

2.1.2 Early game mana curve (aggressive deck)

And now we have a completely different type of deck that focuses on putting constant pressure on the opponent, who should be in danger of death by the middle stage of the game. These types of decks usually need good cards for an ending that doesn't have to be all about throwing a Fireball at an enemy hero. You can simply stock up on strong destruction tools that will allow you to neutralize enemy creatures in the mid and late stages of the game so that your creatures can finish the job they started.

This type of mana curve distribution is great for aggressive Mage, Hunter, Warlock, Warrior, and Rogue decks.

2.1.3 Medium range mana distribution curve (balanced)

These decks usually peak in intensity around a 4-mana slot, as most classes have very strong mid-game cards that allow for board control and card advantage.

This kind of mana distribution curve can be great for any class.

3 Leading the way

Information about your opponent's class and strengths can greatly influence your play style and decision-making process. We will tell you step by step what to expect in the confrontation with each class.

3.1 Druid

The druid's Hero Power is offensive in nature, which allows him to gain card advantage when you play minions with 1 health. Although it may not be entirely correct to play a minion with 1 health on your first turn, as it will simply be destroyed by the opponent's Hero Power , this is usually what you should do if you have strong cards for the next moves. In the Arena, initiative matters a lot, and the presence of your creatures on the board always poses a threat to the opponent and forces him to retaliate (the so-called tempo game), which is one of the main components of the game.

Let's refresh our knowledge of the magician's secrets:

Since the paladin has weapons, try to hold onto the card or its various counterparts.

Paladin's secrets usually do not affect the game as much as mage or hunter's secrets, however, they must be handled with care so as not to give the enemy an additional advantage.

Try to lure copies of the card early in the game, especially if you plan to play cards later in the game or .

As soon as appears on the board, you should immediately destroy it. Often, inexperienced players make the mistake of killing stronger creatures first and underestimating the importance of the cleric's ability to draw cards. It is possible to briefly keep a cleric alive if the opponent has no obvious opportunities to hurt and then heal their own creature.

Creatures with a health of 4 are especially effective against the priest, as they are immune to , and spells. If you have upgrade tools like or , it's a good idea to use them to buff creatures with a base attack of 3. Raising attack from 4 to 5 is a bad idea, as you'll expose the creature to Shadow Word: Death. The exception would be if you are planning to secure a stronger creature that you will bring into play later.

It is advisable to always put pressure on the priest, but do not forget that he is able to clear the board of weak creatures with the help of a card for five crystals. Never put many minions with 2 health against a priest.

If the game drags on to a late stage, then be prepared for a spell. Try to lure him out with creatures you can handle. If you rush to play your strongest card, there is a good chance that on the very next turn you will actually lose the duel.

The priest wins the game by slowly breaking you with his creatures. This usually happens in the mid-game, and your task is to punish the enemy for lack of resources in the early game. At the same time, constant aggression will be the key to your success. Priest's main source of card advantage is his Hero Power, which you need to neutralize by destroying enemy minions and preventing him from healing them.

3.6 Rogue

In the early game, the rogue is capable of being extremely aggressive and is excellent at filling the board with creatures of his own. If the opposing rogue has a card in hand, be prepared for him to use it to activate an ability on one of his cards.

If a rogue used his hero power to equip on his second turn, but didn't attack, it could mean that he saved an or card for his next turn. Against a rogue, you should always hold a card for which the best target is .

Often, a rogue will sacrifice a significant amount of his hero's health in order to gain card advantage. You can take advantage of this if you stock up on strong finishing cards. Try to put as much pressure on the robber as possible.

In the late game, there's a good chance your opponent is holding a card, so try to lure it out to protect your strongest minions. In this case, it is advisable to act aggressively, because the robber will think twice before sacrificing his hero's health indicator again.

3.7 Shaman

To win, the shaman must control the board, and your goal is to strip him of that advantage and keep destroying totems unless a better target comes up. It may seem like it doesn't make sense to kill such insignificant objects, but the shaman always draws a lot of power-up cards that can turn even the weakest object on the board into a threat.

Always keep an eye on the number of mana crystals at the disposal of the shaman. If he played cards with the ability, you can roughly estimate what actions the opponent will not be able to take during the next turn. It is very important to make good use of the moments after playing cards with the Overload ability, because in doing so you can gain advantage in the cards.

If in a confrontation with a shaman you manage to gain an advantage on the board, this will mean your victory. In no case do not let him increase the number of totems, because with their help the enemy can gain an advantage or completely defeat you using a card.

3.8 Warlock

Fighting a warlock is quite difficult. Whether it's an aggressive deck or a control deck, your opponent will always be able to gain card advantage using their hero power and health.

If the warlock has 4 mana and his side of the board is empty, get ready to see . Don't put too many creatures on the board if you dominate it. Try to apply pressure using the resources already on the board.

Usually a warrior is capable of a powerful explosive attack, for example, he can finish your hero using cards and , so try to constantly clear his side of the board when you gain control of it. Always destroy the warrior's creatures first instead of attacking his hero. An exception may be the situation when your potential is enough to finish off the enemy in one turn.

Against a warrior, always play aggressively. Since his Hero Power doesn't have much of an impact on board alignment, you can make your task a lot easier in the late game if you can ensure your minions are properly present on the battlefield in the early and mid game.

4 Combat techniques

When it comes to the choice of tactics in the Arena, it is often necessary to choose the optimal solution from several proposed options. Now we will analyze each of the possible scenarios in more detail to help you develop the right approach to the battle.

4.1 Exchanging creatures

No matter how aggressive your deck is, you should always aim to make the most favorable trades possible without leaving the issue to your opponent. If you're constantly clearing enemy minions, you're less likely to encounter difficulties due to buffing one or another enemy minion. Otherwise, the enemy will be able to make trades on their own terms, or will benefit even more by playing cards that allow you to deal massive damage to your creatures.

However, sometimes it is more profitable to attack the enemy hero when all potential exchanges on the board are approximately equal. In this case, you will be able to put pressure on the enemy and act as an aggressor. Sometimes it is useful to calculate how much damage you are able to inflict on the enemy hero, and what punishment can follow after this. If, in your realistic scenario, ignoring your opponent's minions to attack directly on their hero would result in a severe penalty, then it makes sense to lean towards trades. If this option is not visible, then feel free to show aggression and build up pressure by attacking the enemy hero. Such a skill will develop only over time, and besides, it is impossible to consider all possible scenarios for the development of events, but below we will offer for your consideration several examples that describe the possible consequences of such an attack.

4.2 Dealing lethal damage

In certain cases, you may look at the cards in your hand and decide that you have enough funds to bring the game to its logical conclusion. For example, if you have two copies of the card in your hand in the late game and your opponent's hero drops below 20 health, you might decide it's time to attack the hero, ignoring the opponent's creatures in combat. This strategy has the right to life and is even welcomed, but it may entail certain risks, which we will now consider.

Any time you let your opponent decide how to trade minions, you run the risk of losing your hard-earned advantage on the board. The trade can go much worse than you expected and may even tip the balance of power on the board in your opponent's favor. Therefore, you should always think twice before taking such a risk.

There are several factors that you need to consider when choosing between trading and attacking an enemy hero.

- the contents of your deck and the distribution curve of mana in it. When you play a super aggressive deck, you often have a great plan in place for the early and mid game, but in the meantime, it's hard for you to play at your full potential in the late game. Once your opponent starts summoning powerful minions, you'll need to trade 2 to 1, so it's best to lean towards attacking the enemy hero if you feel like you're in serious trouble in the late game.

- the class of your opponent and spells of mass damage of this class. When your opponent chooses a class that has enough mass destruction spells at their disposal, you need to act on the basis of observations from previous moves. If the enemy had the opportunity to exchange in a ratio of 2 to 1 or better, and he, being under pressure, does not use his cards, or other spells of massive damage, it is likely that these cards are simply not in his arsenal. However, there is always a chance (albeit small) that the opponent will draw one of these cards from the deck on the next turn.

- your hand. If you have cards at your disposal that can neutralize most of the enemy's defensive measures, you should always attack the enemy hero. , strong destruction spells, targeted damage spells, weapons and creatures with the ability should build your self-confidence, they will help you decide whether you should try to destroy the enemy hero immediately. Special attention should be given to the card, since with it in hand it makes very much sense to attack the enemy hero in order to reduce his health indicator below 15.

- your position in the game. When you are losing heavily and you are not sure that your deck will help you level the flow of the fight, you should consider the option of attacking the enemy hero, allowing him to deal with the issue of trades on his own. With some luck, you can draw a good card for a finishing attack.

If you decide to focus all your energy on dealing damage to the enemy hero, consider the contents of your hand, your position on the board, and possible countermeasures from your opponent. If you have come to the conclusion that the risk is acceptable, feel free to attack.

4.3 Race run

If you decide to attack only the enemy hero, and he, in turn, responds in kind, then the following scenarios are likely (if you fail to destroy the opponent during the next turn):

- your opponent has a strong finishing card with which he will try to destroy your hero

- your opponent will be satisfied with a possible exchange in the ratio of 2 to 1 as a result of the impact of a mass damage spell.

- your opponent does not have the right cards to play effectively in the current situation, and he is hoping to draw something suitable from his deck.

In most cases, it will be right to play it safe and minimize the risk by returning to efficient minion trading. However, if you are confident in your finishing cards that will allow you to deal the necessary damage during the next turn, you can go on the attack on the enemy hero (consider your health indicator, which should allow you to survive the attack of the enemy on his next turn) .

4.4 Skip attack

In certain situations, it may be more profitable to skip the attack, although most often such actions are very risky, and should be resorted to only when absolutely necessary, with the obligatory advantage and strong alternative play options.

Imagine that you have on the board, and your opponent mage played . First you make sure it's not (by putting a weak creature on the board, for example, with 3/2), then you miss your attack and on the next turn with this weak creature attack the enemy hero in case he activated the secret Turn to Steam (when you are trying to save your yeti).

And here is another example. Let's say you're playing against a paladin and using a coin to place a card on the board. Your opponent is playing a secret, and most likely it is . If you have no way to activate this secret (using a druid or rogue hero power, a weapon attack, or a creature with a dash ability), then it is better to skip the turn as a juggler in the hope that on the next turn you will be able to activate the opponent’s secret with less losses.

Often the paladin will cast a spell on one of your creatures. As a result, it will gain a card every time that creature makes an attack. If you are close to finishing off the enemy, this move can be seen as a useless gesture of desperation (after all, you should carry out your attacks anyway). However, in the early to mid game (when you're just trying to gain board control), your opponent can get required cards to help him correct the situation on the board. In this case, you should refrain from making attacks with this creature until an opportunity presents itself to make a favorable trade, as a result of which it will be destroyed.

5 Conclusion

Gathering information and reviewing manuals will make you feel more confident in the Arena, however, you need to develop the right mindset before you become a true Arena specialist. Only then will you learn to choose the best ways to develop a duel in the presence of several acceptable options.

It is very important to know each class well, with all its strengths and weaknesses, this will help you build an acceptable deck for the Arena. Pay attention to your mana distribution curve, you need to understand the importance of the early game regardless of your class, and this should reflect on the quality of your deck for any of the classes. Sometimes you'll be lucky enough to score a few legendary cards or even a stack of epic ones, but you'll often be happy to get at least a couple of decent rares. Ours will help you improve your Arena deckbuilding skills fairly quickly, and you'll develop your own recruiting strategies based on your subjective perception of the value of certain cards.

The experience and knowledge of each class will help you develop and improve the ability to react and act proactively, these skills are very important in the Arena. Naturally, luck also plays a role, sometimes having a significant impact on the process of building a deck or the course of a duel, however, in the long run, it is your skills and abilities that play the main role.

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